Neutral safety switch

[Mike Harry]

Ive been working out a few kinks here and there. A few things either loose or started coming loose, few proplems with gauges (didnt realize marine was special and couldnt use a standard sending unit) and now my neutral safety switch has gone bad.

I was having to play with the throttle a little to get it to start for a couple of trips on the lake then this last time, nothing.

I jumped the wires all to one side of the switch to get me around the lake a few times, and now want to replace so I am safe. SKI DIM has 2 types, I want to be sure I get the right one, one is "80's and up" and the other is "old style". Im guessing "80's and up" since my barefoot is an 86..... but I am trying to save shipping back and forth time if anyone knows for sure. Then of course, "80s and up" also requires the purchase of a seperate O ring........ O well I guess

Thanks in ADVANCE
Mike

[RonT]

Without seeing yours I can't tell which you have but I can tell you that in most cases your problem is cable adjustment issues, not the switch. If you have to "wiggle" the throttle to get it to work. The sure test method is to disconnect the shift cable at the trans, position the shift lever to neutral by hand/feel & see if the motor cranks, if so the issue is cable adj. if it does not crank then switch related. 

[Mike Harry]

Thanks for the feedback Ron. I think I am going to go ahead and replace the switch anyway, its a cheep part...... and I will fool with adjustment if that is not the case. Backward thinking I know, but I prefer putting on new parts when I can, and adjustment can be secondary.

What is inside the housing that cuases the made/unmade condition of the switch? is it pressure, or some sort of ball that drops in place? Any possibility that that could be bad?

Thanks as always,
Mike

[Marko56]

Where is the cable adjustment made?  At the tranny or at the shift lever?  Any insight you can offer on how to make the adjustments will be helpful and appreciated.

[Joel]

Good question      I have to wiggle mine every so often - not a big problem...  YET      Where exactly & how do you adjust the cable?  I'll add it to my TO DO list this fall...

[Mike Harry]

I adjusted mine at the shifter. With that being said I would change the little brass barrels while I was in there. They wear out.

Adjusting them is as easy as pulling the carter key on the barrel and either run the barrel up the threads or the other direction until its where you need it.

[Joel]

Mike,

We may want to start a list of things to consider for tech sessions at the next reunion.  If anyone has experience fixing, adjusting, tweaking, repairing, installing, etc... a particular item then they can VOLUNTEER to put on a quick HOW TO tech session at the next reunion. 

Nothing too involved - for instance a "neutral switch adjustment" how to session would take all of 10 minutes, but may help out a few guys trying to do it right THE FIRST TIME...  like... uhhhhhhmmmmm...  ME     I'll volunteer to schedule / coordinate the talent for tech sessions at the reunion.

Something to consider while were getting our 2nd Annual together...   Joel

[Marko56]

If moving the shift lever a little allows the engine to start, is that a sign the neutral safety switch is ok, and that the problem is the cable adjustment?  i.e. can a neutral safety switch work (or fail) only occasionally?

[Mike Harry]

If wiggling makes boat start, adjustment is needed.

[RonT]

Switch failures are rare, follow the following steps:
1) Inspect cable ends for wear, the brass barrels wear at the shifter & trans, carb & throttle, older boats have 4 of these, one on each end of each cable, replace if worn
2) Remove cable end from trans shift arm, apply a little grease on your finger & work it into the back side of the shift arm trying to force it back into the shift detent cavity.
3) By hand move the shift arm back & forth FNR, RNF, and back to N, a distinct detent will be felt, now test the starter switch, engine should crank, neutral safety switch is closed.
4) Adjust the barrel on the shift cable so it slides easily into the shift arm without causing the shift arm to move.
5) Shift cable is set, now test the throttle for correct adjustment, while someone slowly moves the throttle from neutral to forward closely observe the throttle cable at the carb & trans, (I like to put my hand on each) the trans arm should move forward fully into gear before the throttle cable begins pulling the carb. arm, if so your done, if not you need to adjust the throttle cable behind the throttle mechanism.

[Marko56]

I don't feel a distinct denten when the lever on the tranny is moved in and out of N.  Is that a sign of a bad switch?

[RonT]

Without feeling it myself I would look at the ball & spring that creates the detent feel behind the shift lever at the trans. This is a point that needs a bit of grease annually, left unattended for years could cause the detent ball & spring to fail leaving no apparent detent feel. The switch can be tested with VOM meter.

[Marko56]

Should there be any play at all in the shift lever without movement of the cable?  My shift lever can move a little w/o moving the cable.

[RonT]

Sounds like the brass pivots are worn, they need to be replaced every 500 hrs or so.

[Marko56]

Are the brass "pivots" different from the brass barrels?