trailer talk

[Mike Harry]

I have a few things I don't like about my trailer I believe I am going to shape up. Just looking for any cons on my thoughts though. Don't want to screw up bigger than what I think I'm fixing.

I think I am going to cut off the original v-nose stop and add the newest nautique style stop that only touches the rub rail and not the paint. Doing this will require me to move the winch forward as well which is not a problem.

Secondly, I think I am going to add about three feet to the tongue because I don't like how close it puts the boat to the vehicle for one and the hitch needs replaced anyhow so why not now. Longer trailer means easier backup and less vehicle in the water.

Anyone have any thoughts or comments?

[brandon]

Mike, I have to admit (I think I have posted on this before) I like the nautique trailers.  The problem with the v-nose on the nautique trailer the rubrail noses into is that the boat is just sitting on the framerails and doesn't have a "3rd" contact point like the American Skier trailer.  This allows the trailer to flex, allowing the bow to bounce, damaging the rubrail and the nose block on the trailer on a pretty regular basis.  (I know it is called a rub rail, but most prefer it to stay perfect.)  The other issue is you can't easily put your cover on with the nose in the v block.  They did make the newer ones with a pin to make them removable for this, but this will start rattling and also get worn out, especially when someone power loads with too much power.  I really think the best thing to do is if you want a nose block for loading purposes, is to add that in the proper location while keeping the American Skier v-block in place.  I think someone like Moomba made their trailers like this.
As for extending the tounge, my preference is to leave it.  Longer tounge will make it easier to back, but will also require more space to manuver when backing or driving.  It will also put additional stress on the trailer (as is wasn't designed for this, although they are very well built and this shouldn't be an issue)  If you store it in a garage, you may not have the room for the additional tounge sticking out (most of the trailer mods I have heard have actually been to shorten the trailer for this reason).  May also affect the tounge weight (mine was pretty light as it sat), which would make the tounge weight less and make the trailer tail heavy (if you decide to extend it, conside moving the bow stop forward a little to keep the balance correct).
 

[Mike Harry]

Not bad advice for sure.

1. Rather replace rub rail insert than repaint

2. I float my boat on the trailer and always leave at least an inch to the existing V stop now and would continue to do so.

3 good point about storage, I thing I might see if I can buy a break point like newer trailers have....

See, one of the biggest problems I've had is when launching if there is a hole in the ramp on one side (ask me how I know) the V catches on the lip of the boat and F's up my paint. Which in turn really pisses me off. Now while picking up the nose to get it off the V lets say it came down on the winch because of the angle (also a piss off point)

I would be keeping the winch and moving it forward. This all spurs from the only entry point to the lake at my house. I am not on the lake but have access. Its a struggle every time to launch and retrieve the boat. As it is I don't use the ramp and back my Jeep so far in the water that water comes in the plug holes everytime I do it.

Next ramp 14 miles away if anyone is wondering. Ramp I use, across the street.

[Joel]

As Bill Clinton always says...  "I FEEL YOUR PAIN..."  Mike, IMHO your over thinking it...  Closest ramp (any ramp) to my house is over 30 miles!!!  And, then I have to compete with all the weekend "I think I'll take my 45 footer out today" guys that cant trailer a boat or operate one for that matter.   Drive the short 14 miles, save yourself a lot of headache (cause with each fix there are new problems), and count your blessings because you are blessed...  you could be living in the middle of FREAKIN OHIO!!!   

[brandon]

Mike
Understand about it being easier to replace rubrail as opposed to repaint.  Just pointing out some observations.  If you build the nautique style v-block, keep in mind the reason it is so large (up and down) is the bow will hit it lower and then rise as you pull out, ramp angle also will affect how big it really needs to be.  Also with floating your boat on, do not winch it up tight against untill boat is completely on, as with that angle and pressure on the boards and rubrail it will need replacement soon.  As for the tounge, I know Overton's offers a swing away kit, I think Tie Down Marine makes it.  I would guess that you could design and build one cheaper, but definetly do your research on the design.
Just a thought, but with the conditions and circumstances you have, it might be easier to find more of a bunk style trailer (like the late 80's Malibu Skier style).  They were a little longer, and usually had an extra set of bunks that would help lift the bow, eliminating the nose digging into the v block.  They did use the same style v-block as the American Skier, but as I said the extra bunks would help lift.  May make floating the boat on easier also.  I think Trailmaster made those trailers for Malibu.
Oh yea, definitely keep in mind the tounge weight.  Towing something that is tail heavy with a short wheelbase vehicle like a Jeep is a recipe for disaster.  If you have never experienced this, the rear of the vehicle and trailer will start to "wag it's tail" at higher speeds violently and possibly cause you to loose control.

[Mike Harry]

I appreciate all info Brandon. Thanks again. Jeep only pulls her across the street and that's cause she's 4x4. 

I've wagged the tail more than I'd like to admit.

Id go to the other dock, but I can't get through these little canals and everyone hangs at the house waiting on their turn to tube.


Always delimas

[RonT]

All trailers are a compilation of compromises, no two ramps are the same, launch angles differ, some have currents, some have blow out holes (like yours) and the biggest variance is the operators. I addressed this with another user in central Florida years ago. I added another crossmember about 5' ahead of the axle, maybe 3' behind the bow stop & this new crossmember held a 12" wide stoltz roller. The other custom addition I did was an extendable tongue. This was pretty easy to do, as I recall the tongue would extend by releasing a pin, chocking the wheel, pulling the tongue out (about 3') replacing the pin & you were set to launch, repeat for retraction. Of course this was not designed for going down the highway, just launching. (this trailer did not have brakes either)

[brandon]

I like Ron's idea of the extendable tounge.  Take that idea and run with it!  Post finished pictures.

[chrisheile]

One thing I plan to do is raise the winch.  MIne tends to pull down instead of toward the winch.  I am also going to make the V thicker with more of an area in the center for the bow eye to pull through. 

[RonT]

Is your winch strap running over the top toward the bow eye, or under the bottom?? TBX should have a large notch cut out of the 3" square tube center to allow the bow eye to pass through. 

[chrisheile]

good  question.   i will look

[chrisheile]

It is over the top

[Piper5314]

Maybe look at the trailer on a Supra I use to own.  Maybe that would work!    This trailer loaded like a dream!