Rear floor/"hatch" measurment?

[56mulberry]

Looking for the measurment of the removeable floor section in the pic below.....Mine was cobbed together when I took it out two years ago and rotten--I need the measurment from back to front AND whether or not it went all the way back or ended before the transom leaving a gap there--which would be for blower ventilation I assume...so....

#1-  Need actual floor piece measurment front to back...

#2-  AND how much if any gap is left in rear between floor and boat transom.....

It origianlly had some resined 2x4 framing that was clumsy and rotten--not sure what boat had in stock form but nonetheless am going to use 2" aluminum angle to make four 3" long brackets to set floor on then thread them and screw down with a D'ring type fastener or something....much more effecient I think and clean....

Thanks in advance....DOUG

[RonT]

Center floor does not go all the way to the transom. Several variations were used, primarily do to fuel tanks used over the years. Rule #1 keep the floor at least 1" away from contacting the tank, this will allow for carpet over the floor piece & not allow the carpeted floor to contact the tank. Various "stops" were used over the years on each end, you can get creative here since you are already making improvements. If you have the forward position marked, simply measure to the tank & subtract 1"
(The tank should never contact carpet, it can "wick" fuel)

[56mulberry]

OK--my tank is either aluminum or stainless metal and sits up about 2" off the floor on little pedestal/platform brackets on each end made out of the same metal.  So it appearsit is prob isolated OK from carpet at this time once re-installed.

 Maybe I will leave the hatch about 4" short of hitting the transom...?  Sound right?  that will allow for venting of bilge area to blower in rear.

RonT--how was that hatch installed/fastened origianlly?  Did it have wooden ledges screwed to sides of stringers then the hatch screwed down to that? ?  Or the resined 2x4 framework to sit on then screwed down to?  If anybody have a pic of original that would be helpful in locating mine properly.

Thanks D

[RonT]

The aluminum tanks had brackets welded on that allowed screws to fasten it to the floor & stringers, these are for keeping the tank from moving but not for support, the tanks all rested on the floor for support, sometimes on rubber or plastic but I don't recall ever having a tank that was elevated above the floor without support. Early models may have had the center floor running under the tank flush with the port & stb. floors, I would not repeat that method. The early models had a "C" shaped plywood cut-out screwed to the stringers just behind the trans. mount that captured the forward end of the center floor. & small blocks of wood screwed to the aft end to capture that end.

[Joel]

My boat has a great set-up of two center floor pieces.

1st is a small rectangle directly aft of the motor & just shy of the exhaust hoses.  Its approx 1.5 feet in length (bow to stern) and the width fits between the port/stbd floors with one screw at each corner holding it to the stringers.  The forward edge of this piece is where the motorbox hinges are screwed down.

2nd piece is just aft of the 1st and takes up the rest of the center floor including under the rear seat to just below the back seat combing - stopping an inch short of the gas tank (as Ron recommends).  This piece has a chrome finger-ring inlaid at the forward end so you can pull it up for access to the rudder, etc, without removing the motorbox piece (very handy).  It sits (not screwed down) between the port/stbd floors and up against the forward rectangular piece (with the motorbox hinges).  It is notched on the aft ends so it fits snug against some structural members located under the seats.

Both pieces have a thick silver padded insulation on the backside - for sound deadening since they sit directly over the mufflers.

I cant post any pics cause the boat is still in long term storage, but I hope my description gives you an idea of how it all fits together.

Good luck!!!   Joel

[56mulberry]

upon reinspection you are right Ron (as usual) the tank has welded on brackets and sits flush--

so you are saying I should make my rear center floor piece stop BEFORE the tank but after the "transom" cover or whatever that upright piece of rectangular plywood that covers the tank and transom....so the tank is supported on the ends but not right in the middle between the inboard stringers...??

I also like the idea of the foil/heat insulation for sound deadening on the back of that piece of rear floor--mine had none before...and I have no mufflers--just straight pipes....so will prob help with nois levels also inside the boat...

[RonT]

That is correct, the fuel tank between the stringers (center of the hull) is not supported, DO NOT try to send the center floor under the tank, the floor stops short of the tank, yet has sufficient flooring after the vertical panel that hides the tank. The next model we changed to (2) piece center floors to make it easier to service. You can cut your panel into two sections if you want but you will need to add reinforcement across each panel where they meet which is typically where you step all the time. 

[56mulberry]

WIll do--or more correctly "will not do" the floor under the gas tank.  I will stop it short.  See pics of progress on the "foor is out" thread...Doug