Author Topic: L seat construction (Read 10812 times)

Mike Harry · « **on:** November 14, 2010, 09:47:09 AM »

Mine is a one piece originally, but I'm thinking about making it into two separate parts. Mostly because one side of the seat doesn't cover a hole and one does. I just think it would be more easy to remove half the seat for access than the whole thing. I think it would be more easy to handle and manipulate while on the water trying to gain access to the hole.

Any pros or cons on this thought? I have seen them in pictures here split.... think I might go that way. What's your opinion?

Joel · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2010, 10:14:51 AM »

Did you install your battery under the L seat? If so, then making it a two piece seat may let more water into that area when your soaking wet kids plop down after getting out of the lake. My battery is still just inside the hatch to the bow, the L seat is a one piece and I really dont need to get under there that often.

Mike Harry · « **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2010, 10:47:09 AM »

No, I put mine where yours is (battery).... but I plan on storing some stuff under there. Ive got a "dry storage" box that fits in there nicely.

RonT · « **Reply #3 on:** November 15, 2010, 07:59:34 AM »

Passenger seat bottom and backs are usually determined by how the seat back and or bottom are hinged to access storage. If you boat is older & only has passenger seat back only hinging up or to the side & the seat bottom is a lift out cushion you should use a one piece L bottom, but it is a 2 pc. bottom board glassed together to acheive the 2 angles of the bottom. In later years & older boats I have updated, we used a hinging seat back/bottom that lifts up for greater access.

56mulberry · « **Reply #4 on:** January 05, 2011, 12:24:34 PM »

I ran into the issue of needing to remove L-seat (as opposed to removing the entire deck...) because floor was rotten under it and it was screwed down with floor and carpet PLUS the "battery box" or well extends below the level of the floor--ie a hole is cut in the floor slightly larger than the battery well bottom and it sits BELOW the level of the floor--assumedly for potential acid leakage issues?? I had to remove it anyways to get old floor and carpet out--in process of replacing now. I am going to sandwich it back in with an aluminum sheet metal "splint" bent and curved the same as seat back curve from front to side. Then bolt through (countersunk on upholstery side) the metal front and back of the cut I made in the factory assembly seam of the seat and put back together. SHould be real solid when done--cant really glass it back because of lack of access. D

RonT · « **Reply #5 on:** January 05, 2011, 03:36:58 PM »

I would use nothing less than .125" Aluminum to create the joint.

Mike Harry · « **Reply #6 on:** February 19, 2011, 07:09:15 AM »

Blast from the past...... I finally got around to making my new L seat base. got her all glassed up at the same angle as the old base, but was wondering something....... On the old base there are 2 holes (appear to be 1" without measuring) one on each piece of plywood (again imagine 2 parts glassed together as one).

What are these holes for? Do I need them? Just curious because I should be moving into covering them very soon.

I can post pics if needed, Thanks..... Mike

daveo · « **Reply #7 on:** February 19, 2011, 08:50:39 AM »

on my seat those holes are for pins (or bolts ) that extend down through the fiberglass base to lock the seat in and keep it from sliding around when your moving

Mike Harry · « **Reply #8 on:** February 20, 2011, 06:55:05 AM »

Well, mine doesn't have the pins in the glass so ill probly be good without it.

Joel · « **Reply #9 on:** February 20, 2011, 03:32:29 PM »

Mike, Mine has two - 2" wide - velcro stips on the bottom / leading edges of the "L" seat with the "fuzzy side" of the velcro on the top / opposing edges of the "L" seat base. When you shove the seat into position, the velcro keeps it there VERY securely without any bolts, screws, etc, and its easy enough to get out when needed. It holds it so well, I didnt know it came out until my second season of boating when I changed out the stereo...

Something to think about... Spring is on the way!!!!

Joel

Mike Harry · « **Reply #10 on:** February 20, 2011, 05:14:07 PM »

Its either Velcro or foam rubber underneath! I like the Velcro idea, thanks Joel! PS, its already 80s here. Had her on the water yesterday. Ran about a quarter tank out of her putting around. I'm up to 8 hours on it now, think I'm ready to adjust the valves, change the oil and plugs, new tyranny fluid one more time and a last tightening of everything under the hood. I'm even getting the hang of backing the ole girl! ;-)

RonT · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2011, 08:28:00 AM »

The holes on the bottom side of the bottom cushion part is for pressure relief, imagine a large bottomed person sitting down on the seat, kinda like sitting on a balloon, something has to go. We learned this along time ago to add the relief holes so the stitching doesn't blow out. If you don't put the holes in I would suggest a caution sticker reading "no fat chicks allowed". Also there should be plastic put over the foam before the vinyl is pulled over to help prevent water from getting into the foam.

Mark · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2011, 09:23:35 PM »

I've got a 1989 Advance that I had seats recovered a few years ago in Miami. It had a wood bottom for the L seat that had fallen apart due to water and mold. The guy replaced the bottom with one peace of white star-board about 1/4" thick. He some how heated it and got it to form the two angles of the seat base and it's held in place with Velcro. The padding is some type of marine grade foam that will not hold water. The vinyl covering is attached with SS stapels. The thred is even Gore-Tex. Even the side pads have star-board wih SS hardware that attach them to the boat. He did the whole inside of the boat including the clam shell motor box for $1,200.00 and it came with a 10 year warranty. My battery is under the seat, with a small storeage space to the right of it. I think it was made that way, or at least it appears to have always been there. I did add a battery cut off switch that mounted under the seat door.

Joel · « **Reply #13 on:** February 22, 2011, 12:00:09 PM »

Ron, No fat chicks allowed SHOULD be a rule anyway

Mike, Winter just came back to Central Ohio... Its gonna be a LONG time before I get her back in the water...

Probably looking at beginning of May... Unfortunately, the water will still be in the low 60's... I'm looking for a nice shorty so I can ski this Spring, but the wife & kids dont WANNA go out till Summer (its toooooo coooooold... whaaaaa!!!!). Makes it hard to go without someone to pull ya...

Hopefully, the AM Skier Reunion in TN will happen this Summer!!! If it comes together - I'm THERE!!!!

Joel

Mike Harry · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2011, 12:00:21 PM »

I knew there was a reason! I just didnt know what it was. Thanks for shedding the light Ron! ONCE AGAIN

Ski Boat Forum

News: