Author Topic: Knee Pad  (Read 10874 times)

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Offline Mike Harry

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Knee Pad
« on: October 17, 2010, 07:44:24 AM »
I dont know what they are called, but I would like to. The pads that run down both sides of the boat (on the inside) that are about knee height. I dont have them in my boat, but am thinking aout putting them in. I really like the effect. What are these things called #1 and how are they made #2. I have not measured the sides yet, but I think they are longer than 8 feet. 8 foot being the longest plywood I know of, what do you do to put two pieces together? Glass them together? Also, are they 1/4" or 1/2" thick wood? Seems that they would need to be flexable to conform to the sides of the boat and all.

This is what Im talking about  

 http://velvet1.homeip.net:8080/~amskier/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=cf6qkc2fgqt45l8eft16atro62&action=media;sa=media;in=318

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2010, 07:48:41 AM by gongchuan »

Offline Joel

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2010, 05:29:19 PM »
I could be wrong, but I believe the term your looking for is "combing".  Not sure about the rest of your ????
Joel - Columbus, OH - 1991 Advance

Offline Midskier

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2010, 08:31:52 AM »
coaming pads , standard upholstered backboard construction, bolted to the inside gunnel

your backboard / subtstrate can be made of plywood, like they were in the early years or composite
as they were in the later years, thickness I'm guessing 3/8" - 1/2" Ron would know the specs
also do not bring the board up to level with the top of the gunnel, it should be be about a 1/4 " or more below it
to prevent accelerated wear @ that spot.........it does dress it off nicely
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Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2010, 10:00:42 AM »
Ok, so...... Im going to make them and install them. Ive got a good idea on how Im going to do it.

Would like opinions on one thing though. I have seen pictures on an Advance where the seat carries into the coaming pad (one whole peice), I have not however seen any where the seat and the coaming pad are seperate.

Would it look ok to make the pad and just have it start and inch after the seat stops? Should I make them touch each other? or should I just make an entire new seat back and shape it into the coaming pad?

I need opinions here people!  ::)

Offline RonT

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2010, 01:54:11 PM »
Over the years we have made port side coaming panels that included the passenger seat back & coaming panels that were seperate & coaming panels that went all the way to the floor on the ends, your choice. (Always radious the edges of the board so the vinyl won't cut through it)

Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2010, 01:59:34 PM »
How thick Ron, thats the biggest question right now, I know it needs to be thick enough to hold up, but thin enough to curve with the boat.

Also, what did you do to peice plywood together to get the lengh you need?

Offline RonT

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2010, 02:09:59 PM »
The older boats used 5 ply 3/8 then we dipped them in coppertox, (those were the good ole days) Then we went to plastic board like starboard. If you peeled the uph. off you would find the joint, nothing more that another piece of ply stapled to the other (SS staples) with about 4" overlapping each side. 

Offline RonT

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #7 on: October 18, 2010, 02:11:06 PM »
The easiest way would be to use 1/2" pressure treated plywood.

Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #8 on: October 18, 2010, 02:13:58 PM »
Exactly what I needed thanks. Im just going to use a wide blade on my table saw and make a square cut on both sides half the board thick about 4 to 6" back and use some resin/ clamp them and screw with stainless screws... grind off screws and go to town to get them covered.

Thanks.

Offline Joel

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #9 on: October 18, 2010, 02:24:22 PM »
Mike,  The guy that set mine up did a very nice job, but if I had to do it over again I would do both top & bottom combing.  The bottom combing gives you just enough room for your safety gear and at least one ski, a tow line, etc...  It gets the vests, throw cushion, etc, out of the way while their still "readily accessable"...  You'll hear that term again the first time youre boarded by the water patrol and all your safety gear is stowed in the bow (so your not tripping over it...)

Something to consider.

Joel
Joel - Columbus, OH - 1991 Advance

Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #10 on: October 18, 2010, 02:30:51 PM »
For Sure! Now are yours one peice with a "hole" cut in them, or are they two different peices?

Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #11 on: October 18, 2010, 02:34:38 PM »
Oh, I read to fast, you dont have the bottom. Ill have to look at that pretty hard to figure something out.

Offline RonT

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #12 on: October 19, 2010, 08:55:46 AM »
If trying to add "full" coaming that goes to the floor the best design is to go to the floor fore & aft but the center section is 2" off the floor to allow your toes to go all the way to the hull side when reaching over. This greatly enhances safety.

Offline Mike Harry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #13 on: October 19, 2010, 09:26:00 AM »
Good call Ron, thanks

Does the bottom fasten to the floor in any way where it does touch? And how would you go about that..... hinges possibly?
« Last Edit: October 19, 2010, 09:31:25 AM by gongchuan »

Offline 56mulberry

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Re: Knee Pad
« Reply #14 on: October 23, 2010, 07:05:02 AM »
I currently have the origijnal ones off my 1980 AS that are out while I do the floor--BUT I already replaced the wood/resined them and recovered with the upholtery and foam--they are actully taperd from front to back because of the hull/gunwale narrowing to the back--I can take pics of them if you would like and post on here as well as give you stock hole dimensions ifyou trying to stay original...will do pics front and back of both sides...I reused my foam also as it was good but wood was pretty crispy--I used it as template to make new out of 1/2" marine plywood them resined then installed ss studs then resined it all again then used 3M spray contact glue to put foam back on wood and recovered w/old vinyl which was still good using air stapler and ss staples.  they look/fit perfect.  I will have to measure dimensions though to give you correct taper--gimme a couple days....thx DOUG