General Maintenance Questions Help!

[buckbambino]

Hey guys,

I'm almost done with a complete restore of an '81 skier.  Stringers, floor, wiring, etc.  I fired it up yesterday, it sounds pretty sweet!   I'm having some issues with the following...

1.  Spark plug wires.  I am having the hardest time finding the correct plug wires to fit a 351W with a Prestolite distributor.  I have purchase 2 incorrect sets online leading to my highest level of frustration in years.  The problem being the new wires don't fit the larger opening on the distributor - does anyone have a good source for these?  I will post a picture of these next chance.  I have a frankenstein set of plug wires installed now but I don't trust them.

2.  Transmission cooler hoses.  I currently have installed what seems to be 3/8" hose which seems stiffer than say fuel hose.  I would like to replace these.  Is there anything special about the tranny hoses?  The local marina has 3/8" heavy duty water hose, and I have 3/8 fuel hose in my personal inventory.  Any advice on this?

3.  Water hoses.  I should replace all of these, they are dried and cracking.  What should be wire re-inforced?  Does any of the hoses need to be pre-formed?  Any specifications I should be aware of?

Any additional advice is more than welcome!

Thanks for the help!
Charlie

[backfoot100]

As for your questions.
1) I wouldn't go to any auto parts store for these. If you don't get all the parts and pieces and make them yourself, get a set that are made for marine applications but the wires themselves are not marine specific. They would be a bit different length than the automotive version and extra lengths of wires would be hanging all over the engine bay.

2) Yes, you need hydraulic hose and fittings. Fuel or water hose will not work.

3) Anything from the thru-hull fitting to the suction side of the RWP needs to be wire reinforced. Some of the engine hoses such as the circulation pump to thermostat housing are molded.

I didn't see any of these parts on the parts at skiboatpartsonline. You could try calling Ron to verify. For anything that he doesn't carry go to skidim.com.

[buckbambino]

Thanks Backfoot, new hoses purchased (hydraulic for the tranny, just automotive coolant hoses for the exhaust coolers - if this is a mistake please point it out!).  Of course some more questions:

1.  (Continued) Spark plug wires.   I've continued my search, and it appears I need plugs specified for a "tall cap" Prestolite or Mallory distributor.  See attached picture of my distributor cap.  Can anyone confirm this?  I don't think I can handle 3 wrong sets of wires!

4.  Where are tranny coolers typically located?  Mine is/was located in-line with the suction line to the RWP.

5.  Tranny fluid is a little milky, so a change is needed.  Any good ideas for testing the tranny cooler?  It passed a test with my palm and lungs.  Not sure how else water could get in there.

6.  What's a typical ideal speed for a 351W?  Mine is set right around 600RPM.

More to follow I have no doubt!  Thanks to all in advance.

I have made a number of purchases from skiboatpartsonline and will continue to do so.  Unmatched tech support!

[backfoot100]

I'll see what I can do again.
1) I don't know that I've heard of a tall cap like you say. Try here if Ron doesn't have anything.http://www.skidim.com/Plug-Wires/products/1079/1/0 Nothing mentioned on any of these about a tall cap though.
4) Right where you say yours is.
5) Cap one of the tranny line connections. Plumb an air line on the other one. Submerge the cooler in a bucket of water and put some air pressure on the air line. Don't need much pressure. 20-30# should be plenty. If bubbles come out from inside the cooler you have a leak and need a new one. If it leaks from the outer case, it's brass and if you know what you're doing can be brazed or soldered instead of replaced. No bubbles anywhere is a good thing.
Suck out and replace the fluid, run it a little bit in the water and see if it gets milky again. If it's sat a while you may just have some condensation in there from the layup. You my have to drain/fill two or three times to get all the milky stuff out. If the cooler is known good and you still get water in it one of the seals may be done and a rebuild is probably in order.
6) 600-650 in gear idling. this would be about 700-750 in neutral.

[buckbambino]

Thought I would give an update:

1)  Purchased "Magstar 801 Wire Set for V-8 Engines with Mallory or Prestolite "Tall Cap"" wires and got the correct wires.
5)  Tested transmission cooler with air @ ~20psig with old hose and hose clamps.  Tested tight, reinstalled with all new hose with the exception of the 1.75" block recirc hose.  Changed trans. fluid.

Current issue, RWP not pulling suction.  Believe the RWP is shot, the cover is distorted and bolt threads are stripped.  Tried multiple impellers, tight new hoses.  Shopping for a new pump.

[buckbambino]

Has anyone replaced an entire RWP?  I have a Sherwood J70 pump (discontinued).  Has anyone used a Sherwood G21 in its place?  It looks like a slightly smaller pulley than the J70, so the impeller would be spinning slightly faster.  I've considered rebuilding the pump for half the cost, but feel like I'm beyond the point of no return and should bite the bullet and go new.

For reference:
1" inlet and outlet.  Impeller 9959, minor kit 12399, major kit 12665

http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/FileAttachments/Marine-Distribution/en-us//Literature/MPG_J70.pdf
http://www.sherwoodpumps.com/FileAttachments/Marine-Distribution/en-us//Literature/MPG_G21.pdf

[backfoot100]

Current issue, RWP not pulling suction.  Believe the RWP is shot, the cover is distorted and bolt threads are stripped.  Tried multiple impellers, tight new hoses.  Shopping for a new pump.

My personal take is to repair the pump but certainly your call. You can get new bolts from any good hardware store or a marine supply place. I find it hard to believe the cover is warped but stranger things have happened. If the bolts are stripped and you can't tighten them it could certainly give the illusion of being warped. That other pump will work fine by volume pumped. The only potential issue would be if it aligns properly with the same mounting holes as the OEM pump or not which I have no idea about. You may need to be a little creative when mounting it if that's the case.

Are you sure you reinstalled it in the correct direction after the impeller change? These pumps are bi-directional for LH or RH rotating engines. The pump direction is determined by how the pump is physically mounted and they're designed such that they can be mounted in either direction very easily. It's very common to install them backwards after impeller changes by the unknowing.
You have to pay attention to which way the large screw head on the housing of the pump is facing before you remove it. That screw head faces inboard or outboard depending on which side of the engine it's mounted and the engines rotation. 

[buckbambino]

There are a few factors that pushed me to buy an entirely new pump assembly.   I meant the threads in the housing are stripped.  That being said the housing could still probably be salvaged.  Also, I don't trust the pulley, it is seized to pump shaft.  I order to get it off I am risk damaging the pulley and/or the pump shaft further (maybe I could leave it on the shaft).  Regardless, I went with all new.  Good point, I may have to fabricate a new arm to get the pulleys flush.  I verified the G21 can replace the J70.  The G21 has a slightly smaller pulley wheel (better than larger!) which is acceptable.

I know the pump is in the right direction, it was pumping for a while and just stopped while it was running on the trailer.  I think air was getting through the shaft seal. 

Sherwood pump maintenance manual for reference:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Sherwood_Parts_Catalog.pdf

[buckbambino]

Just to follow up.  Installed the new G21 sherwood pump.  I simply cut the bracket to slide the pump into place, see attached photos.  The pulley appears to be a press fit.  Cleaned and painted the engine over the weekend.  She runs well in the driveway.  Giving Ski Boat Parts Online.com a call was one of the most helpful things throughout this project.  Thanks!