Starter on 86 Advance

[CA18_Sean]

Just pulled my starter off my 86 advance to be rebuilt and stupid me didn't mark which wires went where... It is a GM pleasurecraft 350 if that helps.

I found this diagram online, but my boat had three wires going to the starter.



Obviously the largest one goes to the largest post, but what about the other two? I think maybe there were two on the large post and one on the S terminal, but I just wanted to doublecheck.

Thanks,
Sean

[shyskier]

what size are the eyelets on your wires? large wire from battery pos. to top terminal on starter. if you have other large eylets to same terminal ( for battery power feed ) small eyelet with 12 volts ignition switch in start position to s terminal. r terminal rarely used.

[CA18_Sean]

Thank you! I put the other larger eyelet on the large post and the small one on the S post. Nothing on the R, and it fired up perfectly

[RonT]

Sorry I missed this one, here is some additional info for others with this "new style" solenoid/switch used on many new permanent magnate starters, both Ford & Chevy. These are simple, non-servicable parts unlike the ones used years ago. It does two things, the solenoid portion simply energizes a coil activating a  plunger which moves the starter gear toward the flywheel ring gear. The second function is what usually gives problems (loud click, no starter motordrive) when the solenoid plunger is activated it also closes a HD switch/contactor which carries the current from the battery post to the starter motor windings and must handle 100+ amps regularly. This contact area inside is what wears/burnt and will not pass current to the starter windings.  The large posts are the "switch" terminals and can be reversed.

A) Many do not have any markings on them such as "S" or "R"
B) Have found some of these rotated 180 deg. making solenoid terminals based on orientation useless. (can be rotated to make "S" terminal accessible)   
C) Large post with lead going into the starter motor (do not connect anything else to this)
D) Large post opposite - connect battery cable, and other red wire(s) feeding the engine harness
E) Solenoid Coil "Small Post" "S" if marked this is the small post that DOES NOT have a jumper link to the starter motor windings.
F) Solenoid small post (if equipped) marked "R" or "I" or un-marked that does have a jumper link to the large post for the starter winding - this is used on older point type ignitions and this is a "bypass" circuit that feed full voltage directly to the ignition coil bypassing the ballast resistor to aid starting
 

[RonT]

NOTE: Older Fords with remote solenoids may have been converted to the new permanent magnet starter with attached solenoid, just like pictured above.
I recently replaced a solenoid on a Chinese aftermarket Marine Starter and the solenoid looked exactly like the one pictured on the post above. The symptom was "solid click of the starter solenoid - no crank" voltage 12.5, when jumping across the two large posts the engine turns over fine.  I replaced the solenoid and all is back to normal. These are now non-servicible solenoids but before I threw the old on out I cut it open to show whats inside:
Left side: main body with plunger and starter contact "copper washer"  when energized the solenoid plunger pulls in, pulling the starter gear fork to engage the gear to the flywheel, AND the "copper Washer" connectes to the two large posts on the end cap.
Right Side: This is the plastic cap that has the 2 small posts and 2 large posts, the back side of the large posts have the square copper contacts that "make" when the copper washer is pressed against them.
NOTE the burnt look on the contact surface, this is what kept the starter from working, the solenoid pulls in fine (loud click) but the "switch contacts" have enough burning on the surface to make a poor connection.