2001 LazAir Issues

[keehr22]

I bought an '01 LazAir last spring while on deployment in Iraq, came home to find it wasn't in the same condition as described, lesson learned! Just happened to stumble on this forum today, coincidence since I just got an update from my marina back home (headed oversea's again). Seems the transmission is leaking from the rear seal, mechanic says its too corroded to pull apart..Is this a common issue? I haven't been able to find any kind of repair manual offering specs, anyone know what kind of tranny my marine power has? Also, noticed water spraying into boat while driving, from the hull seam somewhere between the drivers seat and the rear right or back seat, any idea where I can find a new rub rail to match? It looks to me like someone has tried to correct the issue before with a whole lot of silicon on the underside of the rub rail..
Thanks for anyones thoughts, glad I found some fellow am skier owners!

[drdonzi]

Your boat should have a hurtz-zenith transmission in it and my 2001 Lazer has had no issues with the tramsmission at all.  As for the silicone under the rub rail, I'm constantly pulling hanging pieces from my boat, It came pretty heavily loaded from the factory.  Good Luck

[phil]

Hey, keehr22.

Not normal. So rusty he can't take it apart on a 2001? Must have been stored outside without a cover on it or something...

[RonT]

The trans is a ZF gear 1:1 and does not have known issues like you are referring to. Dissassembly of the shaft coupling from the trans coupling flange is pretty straight forward, however I have run into issues where the marina is not familiar with inboard drives & is hesitant to get aggressive when needed. The rear seal leak on low-time transmissions is usually caused by shaft mis-alignment or other contributors to vibration (prop, bent shaft ect.)

Hull -Deck joint: The rubrail is not the cause of the leak, it is a secondary seal by silicone. The primary seal is the actural hull/deck joint which is screwed together with marine grade silicone between the halves, then screwed together, then another bead placed under the joint. Then the rubrail is screwed to the same joint & third bead is applied. Most leaks were found on this model from the pylon forward as the boat "dives" into a turn, high pressure water is trying to wash the caulk out. Your description of the leaks location  indicates a probable impact with a dock causing a mechanical failure of the cauked joint. This is easily repaired by removing the rubrail, loosening the hull-deck screws cleaning out the old caulk, reapplying new caulk, tighten down the screws & sealing it back up.

When back Stateside I will be happy to walk you through it...RonT

[chrisheile]

Welcome Keehr22. Be safe.  You make us all proud.

[keehr22]

Thanks for the replies, I'll pass it along to the mechanic, looking forward to getting back to my boat in tip top shape next summer. This makes a few trips over for me, works out well, spend the winter working so I'm home for boat season!

[keehr22]

Updates on those issues, the leak was just as described, hull seal was recaulked and rub rail reinstalled, there was a spot that had been apparently hit, had that repaired and it should be good to go.

Transmission is a different story though, my wife sent over the repair bill from the mechanic and here's his notes:

*Rear transmission flange and nut rusted solid, unable to separate without damage.
*Flywheel assy very rusted and deteriorated, need to find a used replacement.
*ZF Hurth HSW-450D  A=1.00 B=1.03

Anyone know of a good place to start looking, any vendor's they'd recommend?

[RonT]

The oem Shaft coupling and output flange on the transmission are steel with (4) stainless bolts holding them together, then painted for corrosion protection. When a bolt is in trouble, tighten until it snaps & replace it. Worst case scenario is to cut the bolts on the nut side with a sawzall. After they are removed separate the couplings & if there is corrosion on the surfaces it must be cleaned off. I remember having a local machine shop mill a few thousands off the shaft coupling face back in the eighties on a stubborn one. Also offer the mech. my number & have him call if still in trouble.....RonT 

[keehr22]

Great news, I wasn't looking forward to having to replace the trans. It functions great, outside of the fluid leak issue. I'll be sure to pass your info along to the mechanic, in addition to pointing out checking the shaft alignment to see why the leak started to begin with. If he runs into issues I'll definitely take you up on the offer and have him call you. Thanks for the help!