Help make my boat "MY" boat

[Mason]

My name is Nathan and my wonderful wife and I have been looking into having our 91 volante' undated a little and I need some help from you folks. 

first off let me give you a little background.  My wife (Ashley) and I had been looking for a boat for about a year when I got a text message from her.  It read "I bought a boat" so I responded with "Sure whatever" and went on about my day.  After an hour or so I get a call asking when I was coming home and if I had the ball on my truck.  After telling her I was not falling for her B.S. she told me that the check was handed over she needed my truck.  She elaborated a bit and I understood the situation at hand. 

My in-law's had a 1991 American Skier Volante' open bow inboard that the entire family loved.  The boat had about 750 hours and was well used and rarely had anything done to it other than the oil changed at winterization.  The boat was everything we would want for ourselves except for the scratches, stains, and dirt. 

Anyway, Ashley stopped in to see her parents and they had an almost new Crownline LPX (red with checker flag) sitting on the road in front of the house.  After her dad took time to show off his new toy he told her that he had priced the American Skier to a friend of mine.  She quickly asked how much and why he hadn't priced it to us first.  His responded with something about knowing I like my toys new and clean or something.  They talked, he priced it, she said O.K. and cut him a check.

I had skied behind the boat 7 years and Ashley had for about 12 but I never knew he had a barefoot boom, bimini top, two extra props, and some other "Stuff" for it. 

We brought it home and the next weekend I see that friend of mine in a late 80's American Skier Advance.  My Volante and the Advance both are wonderful boats. 

O.K.  my history lesson is over.  I have big plans for my boat and have made some progress.  I installed a Flight Control tower, installed a new Holley carb, added straight exhaust, and cleaned everything last year.  This year I want to have the gelcoat buffed, some paint added, install a nice stereo, and have a cover & bow cover made. 

I have two quotes for the hull work.  Buff the white, repaint the red, replace the rub rail, and replace the vinyl pinstripes.  Quote 1 is for $1,495.00 and quote 2 is $1,750.00.  The marina I frequent dislikes the company from quote 1 and recommended quote 2.

Do the quotes sound fair and what would you do if you were in my shoes???

Before you ask I will take photos when I get the boat out and take the tarps and old ratty cover off.  If Ron T. lived closer I would love for him to do the job for me but the travel time and expense would be hard to swing. 

Wow that's along post.

[backfoot100]

Welcome Nathan.

All I can say is you have one very awesome wife!!!!!!!

I don't know that those prices are bad but I would certainly look into doing it yourself if you have any mechanical abilities at all. Just a buff and polish isn't that bad but removing everything to do it is the tough part.

I also don't know that I would repaint the red either. I assume that the red is actually gelcoat (unless it changed after 86) because my skier is gel so buff that out too instead of paint it. You can get yourself a RA buffer, some pads, buffing and polishing compound and some wax and go for it man! It'll definitely take some time but you'll save youself a lot of money you can spend for gas. Just a thought anyway.

If you want more detail to take this on yourself, let us know.

[Mason]

[url=http://www.amskierboats.com/skiergal/displayimage.php?album=2&pid=3687#top_display_media]http://www.amskierboats.com/skiergal/displayimage.php?album=2&pid=3687#top_display_media[/url]


http://www.amskierboats.com/skiergal/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pid=3762#top_display_media


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[RonT]

Neither quote sounds right to me,  first I always advise to do everything possible to restore the gelcoat, the red is gelcoat & can usually be brought back to life by compounding and if needed some wet sanding  This with new pin striping should be no more than 1K. If painting must be done the prep work and quality paints and a proper job would cost much more than what your quotes indicate. 

[Mason]

Thank you Ron.  I have decided to just enjoy the boat for the summer.  This winter I would like to find someone to buff the gel and stripe the boat.  Local craftsmanship is lacking but I will find someone experianced and knowledgable brfore I trust my boat to them.  As you can see I am trying to post a few photos of how dull the red is.  The rear is the worst part because of the way the old lift exposed the boat to the sun.  I want a new looking boat without the $60,000 price tag but I also like the classic look. 

[Mike Harry]

I have to agree with Ron on this one. Cutting (wet sanding) and polishing this boat is what is needed. Take it from someone who painted their boat, and I have no regret doing it because my finish was far to far gone to try and fix, but there is nothing like gel coat.

Luckily my dad is a pro finisher and I got a superior job, but I still have to be very very careful where you should not have to be so careful with gel coat.

Im certain Ill be re finishing the bottom of my boat every 4 or 5 years if not sooner than that, but its the price I pay for painting below the water line, and again, there was no way around it with my boat except to buy another one in better shape.

[Mason]

Mike,

Your boat looks wonderful. The colors and finish look like new. I hope that mine is as eye catching when sitting at the marina or in my driveway. Now I need to find someone to buff mine out. I have a buffer that I have used on antique tractors and other farm equipment but I'd rather find a professional.

Will the areas covered in pinstripe and lettering match everything in both the short and long term?

I would be OK with no lettering since the graphics seem to be difficult to find or match.

[Mike Harry]

The lettering and pin striping I would have redone if I was you, if its graphics. If its in the gel coat then it will look just as good as the rest of the gel coat after buffing.

The key is to pull all the decals, then cut and buff, and then replace the decals. As far as the pin striping goes (if its not in the gel), take it to a good dealership. If they don't have someone who does it, they have someone who comes around weekly or monthly that does. That's the only way they can get it done too.

As far as the wording decals and A.S. sensitive stuff, have a talk with Ron. Your stuff isn't as difficult to get as the older stuff I believe. In fact Ron might have some of your stuff still floating around.

Oh yeah, be sure to take measurements of where the decals are placed before pulling them too, that is if you want them back in the original location.

I just re read your post and seen it a little differently. Yes, even what looks "new" under decals will blend right in with everything else once its buffed. Also you may get lucky and not have to actually sand, it may be able to be taken care of with finesse it or some other similar cutting paste that is used with the buffer itself.

[Mike Harry]

And thanks for the comments. Looking good is nice, BUT looking good and being as durable as possible is your goal!

[Mason]

I'm off to a slow start this year. 
 I had to replace the floor in the bow after it felt soft when I pulled the tarp off.
The floor was 1/2 plywood wraped in carpet. I was excited to find the fiberglass floor underneath. We also have ordered a bow cover and custom trailerable cover.
Last weekend the boat had a viberation around 3,500 rpm. That went away at Wide open throttle. I hope it will go away when I change the oil, filter, spark plugs, and wires.

I still have a faded out old boat but I have plans to have it buffed and waxed over the winter. I have yet to hear anyone comment on how bad the gelcoat looks while they are in or behind it.

[Joel]

Mason,

Be very careful with a intermitten vibration.  A vibration MAY be caused by the engine missing, etc, but more likely is caused by something in the drive train - shaft may be out of alignment or the cutlass bearing needs replaced (if you grab the prop & can move it up & down or side to side AT ALL then the cutlass bearing is suspect), the thru-hull / stuffing box may be too tight, may have a bent prop blade or blades, etc...   Take a good long look from the drive all the way down the shaft to the shaft strut (cutlass bearing inside), the prop & rudder for anything that looks out of alignment, rubbing, worn out or damaged.   My bet is the cutlass bearing needs replacement...   Hope this helps!!!

Joel

[Mason]

Thank you Joel.

I plan to look everything over today. I think it was more of a miss from a plug fouling or something. It seemed to me like one cylinder loaded up with fuel and then suddenly cleaned itself out. That's why I am changing plugs first. It may also be the fuel. I didne have the boat out very long and the fuel was in there all winter too.

How frequently do you experts change the packing?  The prop shaft was replaced along with packing seals about 5 years ago.

[backfoot100]

How frequently do you experts change the packing?  The prop shaft was replaced along with packing seals about 5 years ago.

Depends on use.  As long as you can adjust it so it drips 4-6 drips per minute you should be good.

[Mike Harry]

Thank you Joel.

I plan to look everything over today. I think it was more of a miss from a plug fouling or something. It seemed to me like one cylinder loaded up with fuel and then suddenly cleaned itself out. That's why I am changing plugs first. It may also be the fuel. I didne have the boat out very long and the fuel was in there all winter too.

How frequently do you experts change the packing?  The prop shaft was replaced along with packing seals about 5 years ago.

No expert, and this is not advise because some purests dont like the idea....... but I went with the dripless seal and love it. I know I am pushing way more water through that area to keep it cool....... just my .02 cents