Ski Boat Forum
Repairs and Maintenance => Boat Maintenance - American Skier => Topic started by: Arne3680 on August 15, 2013, 12:32:55 PM
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Hello
I have some problems with a cold start with my commander 351 engine.
it's an American Skier from 1978.
When I use it every day, I have no problems starting it.
When it lays still for a week, it takes me a minute or 10 to start it.
Can it be because of moist in the carb or the ditributor cap?
When it finaly runs, its like the first five or 10 minutes the engine doesn't use its 8 cylinders.
She frequently skips a cylinder I guess.
Is there someone with the same problem?
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You can look at a couple things.
First the choke. Take off the flame arrestor and look at the choke plate. When cold, it should have a small gap between the choke plate and the choke horn. Probably 1 or 2mm (over here it's 1/16 to 1/8").
To adjust you loosen up three screws around the circumference of the black plastic choke housing. Turn the housing so that you get the 1 or 2mm gap when completely cold.
Turn the key on (don't start it) and you should see the choke slowly open up. In about a minute or so it should be straight up and down.
If it doesn't have a full swing to completely open after being properly adjusted or you can't adjust it properly, the black choke housing/spring should be replaced. They do wear out with age. The choke can make big difference in cold starting.
Might also just need a good tune up. Plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and well adjusted timing.
Do you pump it when you start it? When cold, pull engagement knob on the throttle control and give it two or three pumps to start. Common practice for a cold carbed motor.
I wouldn't think you have a water or condensate issue. This is a carbed motor so they can be a little cold blooded when they start cold.
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By the way, my buddy in Belgium is in Bree. Not sure how far that is from you but it would be really cool if you got a chance to hook up with him. The two of you could help each other out quite a bit when it comes to these boats. He's quite a skier too. A really good guy.
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You can look at a couple things.
First the choke. Take off the flame arrestor and look at the choke plate. When cold, it should have a small gap between the choke plate and the choke horn. Probably 1 or 2mm (over here it's 1/16 to 1/8").
To adjust you loosen up three screws around the circumference of the black plastic choke housing. Turn the housing so that you get the 1 or 2mm gap when completely cold.
Turn the key on (don't start it) and you should see the choke slowly open up. In about a minute or so it should be straight up and down.
If it doesn't have a full swing to completely open after being properly adjusted or you can't adjust it properly, the black choke housing/spring should be replaced. They do wear out with age. The choke can make big difference in cold starting.
Might also just need a good tune up. Plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and well adjusted timing.
Do you pump it when you start it? When cold, pull engagement knob on the throttle control and give it two or three pumps to start. Common practice for a cold carbed motor.
I wouldn't think you have a water or condensate issue. This is a carbed motor so they can be a little cold blooded when they start cold.
Thanks
The only problem is that I don't have an automatic choke.
But I can try it manually like tha way you say it.
I allready have replaced the plugs, points and cap.
I can try and replace the condenser and the rotor.
But I can't replace the rotor myself because of the adjustment off timing. I can't do it myself.
Its funny that he lives in Bree.
Thats like 15km (9.5 miles).
What's his name? and what boat does he own?
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Kristof Ehrens.
I'm pretty sure it's a 88 Correct Craft. Might be an 87. He's a member of a ski team I know. If you want, I'll see if he wants to pass his contact information on to you.
I have no idea what to say of your choke isn't automatic. Maybe Dan T. will chime in on this.
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Kristof Ehrens.
I'm pretty sure it's a 88 Correct Craft. Might be an 87. He's a member of a ski team I know. If you want, I'll see if he wants to pass his contact information on to you.
I have no idea what to say of your choke isn't automatic. Maybe Dan T. will chime in on this.
Haha, this is funny and coincidence!
I met him yesterday on the water in Maaseik. He owns a '89 Ski Nautique.
He was on a friends boat and we talked for a couple of minutes.
I have no contact info of him, but if he wants to, you can give it to me.
It's a small world!
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Backfoots right on target with his advice, one other thing may be causing your issue, a carb that leaks down will flood the rear cylinders & cause hard starting & sound like its running on less than 8 cylinders when she starts, then clears up. This is dangerous and can cause to "Hydrolocking" the cylinder when starting. (catastrophic failure). Send a pic of the carb to clarify the choke issue we may not be talking the same carb. language.
Welcome aboard.
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Hey Arne,
I was looking at the pics of your rebuild and I see where there is what looks like a cable going to the choke. I assume it was rigged for a manual setup then and I would think you have a choke knob on the dash someplace then?
Ron or Dan would definitely have to confirm this but I don't know of any manual chokes that were factory installed. Was the carb replaced at some point? Maybe an automotive carb put in place of the marine unit?
Like Ron suggested, shoot us some pics of the carb with the flame arrestor removed. We'll be able to figure it out for you.
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Ron, Backfoot
I really appreciate your help!
I think that's my problem.
When I started it the last time, it backfired like hell!
It's indeed a manual choke cable. But its to light and I already took it away.
I'm searching for a stronger one.
The carb is replaced. I will look for the invoice and tell toy if its marine or auto.
I think its a marine though.
Could it also be that I start it all wrong when its cold?
What's the best way to start a boat of this age?
Full throttle down or pump the throttle...
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The engine also still runs on leaded gasoline.
So that can't be the problem.
There is some smoke (fog) coming out of the exhausts.
Is the lead the reason of this?
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Typical cold, carb, engine start will need 1 pump of the throttle (down & back to neutral) full choke, crank, start & slowly back off the choke. if you have a manual choke you probably have no "high RPM" idle until warm, as this is normally done with the electric choke (A/S never used a manual choke) so you may have to pull the neutral button on the throttle to add throttle in neutral for a minute or so until it idles.
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Typical cold, carb, engine start will need 1 pump of the throttle (down & back to neutral) full choke, crank, start & slowly back off the choke. if you have a manual choke you probably have no "high RPM" idle until warm, as this is normally done with the electric choke (A/S never used a manual choke) so you may have to pull the neutral button on the throttle to add throttle in neutral for a minute or so until it idles.
Ok, thanks.
I'm going to try that later this evening.
But what exactly do you mean by crank? I don't understand it.
I will take some pictures and I'm going to try and film it to show you guys.
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"Crank" turn key to start, engage starter motor to rotate engine
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I've just been with my A/S.
Tried to start her, she started after a minute or 8 of trying.
Below are some pics of the carb.
I also made a film of it.
If you want I can send it to you with wetransfer? (or can i put it here on the forum?)
I think its strange she won't start, when we were working on her she always started for the first time.
Like there was nothing going on.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img841/9264/r0xr.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img823/1807/40l8.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img20/2263/su8c.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img163/3361/g93h.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img801/7218/ejvv.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img716/4269/9lss.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img832/6499/vxi9.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img197/8849/kd9n.JPG)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img818/5584/4k6d.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img189/7950/uwyc.jpg)
Hope you can use these...
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That looks like a late model generic automotive carb., not a marine carb. for sure, looks like an electric choke could be added and replace the manual cable. When it does start is there black smoke coming out the tailpipes during the first minute?? If so pay attention to your carb. at shut-down, look down the carb. throats to see if fuel continues to dribble down into the motor after shut down. You may have trash under your float needle/seat.
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There should also be a purple wire near where the choke was, make sure that loose wire is insulated. Do you have tie-wraps holding the distributer cap on??
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Definitely an automotive carb. I would highly suggest that you look to replace that with a marine carb. A marine carb is designed to help prevent a fire. A marine carb vent tube (The two tubes that are angle cut that stick straight up in the air on top of the carb) is called a "J" tube. It comes out of the carb and then turns down (like an upside down "J") back into the throat of the carb so if gas comes out of it, it dumps back into the carb. Better for the gas in that situation to drain back into the carb instead of all over the bilge and potentially start a fire. A marine carb also has splined and sealed throttle plate shafts to prevent leaking as well as different jetting more suited to a boat. A marine carb will have an electric choke that the purple wire that Ron talks about should plug into.
I'm guessing that carb is probably running rich because of the different jetting that they have and doesn't help with your starting issues.
We always strive to make our boats as safe as possible and there is a reason that there are some parts that are marine specific. Carb, alternator, starter, distributor and fuel pump are all marine specific and have modifications in them to help prevent fires. Always a good thing when you're in a boat.
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That looks like a late model generic automotive carb., not a marine carb. for sure, looks like an electric choke could be added and replace the manual cable. When it does start is there black smoke coming out the tailpipes during the first minute?? If so pay attention to your carb. at shut-down, look down the carb. throats to see if fuel continues to dribble down into the motor after shut down. You may have trash under your float needle/seat.
When I start it there is no black smoke coming out of the tailpipes.
I have tie-wraps holding the cap on. I lost the clips and I'm not shure witch to order now.
Definitely an automotive carb. I would highly suggest that you look to replace that with a marine carb. A marine carb is designed to help prevent a fire. A marine carb vent tube (The two tubes that are angle cut that stick straight up in the air on top of the carb) is called a "J" tube. It comes out of the carb and then turns down (like an upside down "J") back into the throat of the carb so if gas comes out of it, it dumps back into the carb. Better for the gas in that situation to drain back into the carb instead of all over the bilge and potentially start a fire. A marine carb also has splined and sealed throttle plate shafts to prevent leaking as well as different jetting more suited to a boat. A marine carb will have an electric choke that the purple wire that Ron talks about should plug into.
I'm guessing that carb is probably running rich because of the different jetting that they have and doesn't help with your starting issues.
We always strive to make our boats as safe as possible and there is a reason that there are some parts that are marine specific. Carb, alternator, starter, distributor and fuel pump are all marine specific and have modifications in them to help prevent fires. Always a good thing when you're in a boat.
Could the problem be solved with a marine carb?
Is there any difference in working?
What do you mean with jetting?
Thanks!
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That looks like a late model generic automotive carb., not a marine carb. for sure, looks like an electric choke could be added and replace the manual cable. When it does start is there black smoke coming out the tailpipes during the first minute?? If so pay attention to your carb. at shut-down, look down the carb. throats to see if fuel continues to dribble down into the motor after shut down. You may have trash under your float needle/seat.
When I start it there is no black smoke coming out of the tailpipes.
I have tie-wraps holding the cap on. I lost the clips and I'm not shure witch to order now.
black smoke when starting would indicate a very rich condition - for now you will need to correctly operate the throttle and choke as needed to get the cold engine running - once it warms up choke should be fully open
your engine came with a Holley 6140 Marine 600 cfm vacuum secondaries electric choke carburetor
as Ron mentioned there may be / should be a loose purple wire near the carb now and it should be taped and tie wrapped as it is +12 volts when the key is in the on / run position - this purple wire would go to the forward tab on the electric choke
the rear tab on the electric choke is connected to any ground - most use 1 of the screws holding the choke mechanism
your distributor was originally a prestolite "clip down"
Definitely an automotive carb. I would highly suggest that you look to replace that with a marine carb. A marine carb is designed to help prevent a fire. A marine carb vent tube (The two tubes that are angle cut that stick straight up in the air on top of the carb) is called a "J" tube. It comes out of the carb and then turns down (like an upside down "J") back into the throat of the carb so if gas comes out of it, it dumps back into the carb. Better for the gas in that situation to drain back into the carb instead of all over the bilge and potentially start a fire. A marine carb also has splined and sealed throttle plate shafts to prevent leaking as well as different jetting more suited to a boat. A marine carb will have an electric choke that the purple wire that Ron talks about should plug into.
I'm guessing that carb is probably running rich because of the different jetting that they have and doesn't help with your starting issues.
We always strive to make our boats as safe as possible and there is a reason that there are some parts that are marine specific. Carb, alternator, starter, distributor and fuel pump are all marine specific and have modifications in them to help prevent fires. Always a good thing when you're in a boat.
Could the problem be solved with a marine carb?
Is there any difference in working?
What do you mean with jetting?
replacing the automotive carb with the correct marine carb will accomplish several things
1- safety - less chance for fire / explosion
2- operable automatic electric choke - ease of cold starting
3- jetting - jets are fittings internal to the carburetor that meter the fuel flow - they look like a brass screw with a hole drilled through the middle of it - the hole is a very specific size
by the way if you do replace the carb - it will not guarantee perfect and immediate cold engine starting as your modern EFI automobile does however it will minimize the cold engine start up steps
good luck
Dan T
Thanks!
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I understand it will not start like a modern engine.
I only want to be sure I don't do any unnececary costs.
Can someone explain to me why she starts when I use it every day,
But when I don't use it for 2 or 3 data, she starts difficult?
Thanks!
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You would have to explain starts difficult.
Does it turn over hard (seem like the battery is going dead) or does it turn over normally but just not want to start (like it isn't getting gas or spark).
Then we also need to know how exactly you're trying to start it. From pumping the throttle, operating the choke and turning the key. What exactly are you doing and what is the engine doing?
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Arne, I'm no mechanic but have had a similar issue. My 84 normally fires up without any pumping of the throttle, and fast (like fuel injected but shes not). Last summer and this summer she had moments where she wouldn't fire up, then would fire reluctantly after almost running the battery down. Starter fluid would help, but aggravating. A buddy of mine is a Ford 351 freak who said you have condensation in the distributer cap (I said no since I just replaced the cap and rotor). ...so after the latest monsoon while my boat was at the dock, she wouldn't fire. I pulled the distributer cap, cleaned/dried her inside real good with the shirt I had on, and one turn of the key she fired up. I went as far as using the shirt and fingernail to lightly scrub each contact. Just my 2 cents... Oh, and beautiful boat!
I don't understand the timing comment you had earlier with the rotor. It should just pull straight up and off, then put the new one on in the same pointed direction. You'll have to remove the wire ties from the cap though..
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You would have to explain starts difficult.
Does it turn over hard (seem like the battery is going dead) or does it turn over normally but just not want to start (like it isn't getting gas or spark).
Then we also need to know how exactly you're trying to start it. From pumping the throttle, operating the choke and turning the key. What exactly are you doing and what is the engine doing?
She doesn't turn over hard. The battery is ok.
It turns over, but just won't start.
When I start it I first pump the throttle once, then I turn the key. Full choke.
If I try this for a minute, it sounds like she wants to start, but nothing happens.
Then I choke it less. A little opening is now letting air in the carb.
I try this for a minute or so, when it sounds like she wants to start, and do nothing she won't start. So I gave a little extra gas, but then nothing happens either.
After a minute or 7, after some playing with the choke leveler, she finaly starts.
But almost immediately (a couple of secons) she quits. (you can hear the carb sucking air or something and then quits)
This a couple of times in a row, and finaly she keeps running at 2000 rpm.
Not very clean like it should, but after 30 second (more or less) she runs normally in neutral.
If I give some gas, you can hear the air sucking sound again and the engine allmost quits. When she is warm, she doesn't do this.
(when im driving 3mph and give full throttle, she dies. But this is because its an automotive carb I gues. After some things I read.)
I hope you can understand what I'm saying here.
It's very difficult for me to explain this problem in English.
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I'm pretty sure that I understand what you're trying to say. Makes sense to me. Somebody else like Dan or Ron might agree or disagree with my synopsis.
To me it sounds pretty normal. These carburated boats can tend to be "cold blooded" until they get warmed up. Your cold starting scenario doesn't sound terribly different that how mine starts when cold.
I give it two pumps on the throttle. Turn the key and it generally starts right up. I have to keep it above 1500 RPM or it'll die on me right away. I can start to ease it down to 1000 RPM after about 20-30 seconds and after 45 seconds, it's all good to go. Back to neutral, in gear and everythings fine. After that, all I have to do is turn the key.
If it does by chance die on me in the first 30 seconds when cold, it's immediately flooded. I have to hold the throttle wide open to get it started again and it has to crank for several seconds before it will start again. If I don't give it any pumps beforehand, the engine cranks for a long time before it will try to start. That sounding kinda familiar?
I would suggest giving it two good pumps initially and then try starting it. Ron says one pump which should work but I've always done two.
Also, how are you pumping it? When you pull the transmission disengagement knob on the shifter, pull the throttle lever back (like your going into reverse) to the first detent. That first detent should be a fast idle position. Then you give it two pumps (backwards) from that position. If you're pumping from neutral to that first detent, and back to neutral, you aren't pumping any gas at all.
If you lift the engine cover befiore starting, you should be able to hear the pump shots. If you can't hear the pump shots, you aren't pumping anything.
My guess is that your starting issues are because it isn't getting enough gas initially and the engine has to crank over a long time to get some gas into the cylinders. Purely my guess and I've certainly been wrong before.
The sucking air of the carb when it starts is also normal. It pulls alot of air as soon as it starts. As long as it runs good when warm, it's fine.
Regarding the automotive carb, we've suggested to replace it with a mariine unit. An auto carb will run on these boats but they aren't as efficient and they are jetted differently.
Like Dan stated, if you get a 600CFM marine carb on there with the electric choke, you should just have to set the idle mixture screws and drive it. No more manual choking like you have to do now.
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I'm pretty sure that I understand what you're trying to say. Makes sense to me. Somebody else like Dan or Ron might agree or disagree with my synopsis.
To me it sounds pretty normal. These carburated boats can tend to be "cold blooded" until they get warmed up. Your cold starting scenario doesn't sound terribly different that how mine starts when cold.
I give it two pumps on the throttle. Turn the key and it generally starts right up. I have to keep it above 1500 RPM or it'll die on me right away. I can start to ease it down to 1000 RPM after about 20-30 seconds and after 45 seconds, it's all good to go. Back to neutral, in gear and everythings fine. After that, all I have to do is turn the key.
If it does by chance die on me in the first 30 seconds when cold, it's immediately flooded. I have to hold the throttle wide open to get it started again and it has to crank for several seconds before it will start again. If I don't give it any pumps beforehand, the engine cranks for a long time before it will try to start. That sounding kinda familiar?
I would suggest giving it two good pumps initially and then try starting it. Ron says one pump which should work but I've always done two.
Also, how are you pumping it? When you pull the transmission disengagement knob on the shifter, pull the throttle lever back (like your going into reverse) to the first detent. That first detent should be a fast idle position. Then you give it two pumps (backwards) from that position. If you're pumping from neutral to that first detent, and back to neutral, you aren't pumping any gas at all.
If you lift the engine cover befiore starting, you should be able to hear the pump shots. If you can't hear the pump shots, you aren't pumping anything.
My guess is that your starting issues are because it isn't getting enough gas initially and the engine has to crank over a long time to get some gas into the cylinders. Purely my guess and I've certainly been wrong before.
The sucking air of the carb when it starts is also normal. It pulls alot of air as soon as it starts. As long as it runs good when warm, it's fine.
Regarding the automotive carb, we've suggested to replace it with a mariine unit. An auto carb will run on these boats but they aren't as efficient and they are jetted differently.
Like Dan stated, if you get a 600CFM marine carb on there with the electric choke, you should just have to set the idle mixture screws and drive it. No more manual choking like you have to do now.
Right after I pumped it, I can see gas in the carb.
Is it really normal that iy only starts after 7 minutes?
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No, 7 minutes is certainly not normal. I must've missed that part. Must be that laguage barrier thing.
Pull the plugs and see what they look like (wet or dry, color, gap, etc.) What brand plugs are they?
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I'g go with a tune up, plugs, wires, rotor...etc. If that doesn't solve it I would rebuild or replace the carburetor. I'm running a non marine carb too, and while potentially dangerous, it's starts right up...like a champ. I doubt mine turns over 3 revolutions before it kicks and starts. I have an electronic choke for what it's worth.
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No, 7 minutes is certainly not normal. I must've missed that part. Must be that laguage barrier thing.
Pull the plugs and see what they look like (wet or dry, color, gap, etc.) What brand plugs are they?
Later this day I will check the plugs and tell you what brand they are.
I'g go with a tune up, plugs, wires, rotor...etc. If that doesn't solve it I would rebuild or replace the carburetor. I'm running a non marine carb too, and while potentially dangerous, it's starts right up...like a champ. I doubt mine turns over 3 revolutions before it kicks and starts. I have an electronic choke for what it's worth.
What do you mean with rotor?
Is this the distributor?
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I looked it up what a rotor is.
I allready did a tune-up.
I got a new distributor cap, a new rotor, new wiring. The only thing I haven't replaced is the distributor itself and the ignition coil.
The battery of my boat is now full cherged, I will take out the plugs later, and clean them up.
What should the spark plug gap be?
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Arne,
The plug gap should be .035".
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I checked the contactpoint on the distributie.
The gap was .030" and should be .043
I changed that, and it started right away!
Going to try again tomorrow. Lets hope she starts right away!
The plugs I have are champions. Going to check the gap tomorriw or later this week.
I will let you know!
Thanks!
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I checked the contactpoint on the distributie.
The gap was .030" and should be .043
I changed that, and it started right away!
Going to try again tomorrow. Lets hope she starts right away!
The plugs I have are champions. Going to check the gap tomorriw or later this week.
I will let you know!
Thanks!
Arne,
By contact point, I assume you're talking about the point gap itself?
That should be .018". A gap of .043 is way too much. Please confirm.
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I checked the contactpoint on the distributie.
The gap was .030" and should be .043
I changed that, and it started right away!
Going to try again tomorrow. Lets hope she starts right away!
The plugs I have are champions. Going to check the gap tomorriw or later this week.
I will let you know!
Thanks!
Arne,
By contact point, I assume you're talking about the point gap itself?
That should be .018". A gap of .043 is way too much. Please confirm.
Yes ofcourse.
I am terrible sorry, I was talking in mm.
I set it to .43 mm what the Same is as .019 inch.
Hope the prolem is solved. Going to start again today or tomorrow.
An electric choke comes at the end of the season or next season.
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I checked the contactpoint on the distributie.
The gap was .030" and should be .043
I changed that, and it started right away!
Going to try again tomorrow. Lets hope she starts right away!
The plugs I have are champions. Going to check the gap tomorriw or later this week.
I will let you know!
Thanks!
Arne,
By contact point, I assume you're talking about the point gap itself?
That should be .018". A gap of .043 is way too much. Please confirm.
Yes ofcourse.
I am terrible sorry, I was talking in mm.
I set it to .43 mm what the Same is as .019 inch.
Hope the prolem is solved. Going to start again today or tomorrow.
An electric choke comes at the end of the season or next season.
Oh OK. That makes much more sense. Yes, your point gap was way too close then originally. I'm surprised that it ran at all with a gap like that. That should make a huge difference. If you changed the point gap, I would also recheck the timing as that has surely changed now also.
I think the preferred plug would still be an Autolite but the Champion should be fine. Verify that gap is at .035" and you should be in much better shape.
Keep us updated and nice job finding the issue and getting it fixed. Even with the slight language barrier. ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Arne, Not sure if this was covered already, but here goes... Replace the points & condenser with electronic ignition. Costs around $125 (US) and fits right inside the distributor. No more points to mess with and the boat will start & run SOOOOOOO much better :) Its probably the BEST performance modification you can do, not difficult at all, and the best bang for the buck!!
Joel
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I checked the contactpoint on the distributie.
The gap was .030" and should be .043
I changed that, and it started right away!
Going to try again tomorrow. Lets hope she starts right away!
The plugs I have are champions. Going to check the gap tomorriw or later this week.
I will let you know!
Thanks!
Arne,
By contact point, I assume you're talking about the point gap itself?
That should be .018". A gap of .043 is way too much. Please confirm.
Yes ofcourse.
I am terrible sorry, I was talking in mm.
I set it to .43 mm what the Same is as .019 inch.
Hope the prolem is solved. Going to start again today or tomorrow.
An electric choke comes at the end of the season or next season.
Oh OK. That makes much more sense. Yes, your point gap was way too close then originally. I'm surprised that it ran at all with a gap like that. That should make a huge difference. If you changed the point gap, I would also recheck the timing as that has surely changed now also.
I think the preferred plug would still be an Autolite but the Champion should be fine. Verify that gap is at .035" and you should be in much better shape.
Keep us updated and nice job finding the issue and getting it fixed. Even with the slight language barrier. ;) ;) ;) ;)
I am going to try again tomorrow.
I will check the timing. Do I have to do this when hot or cold?
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checking time with a warm running engine
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ok, thanks
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Yesterday I fired it up for the last time this season.
Once it started and the engine was hot, it ran really nice.
But when I started it, there was some black smoke from the back.
That's a bad thing, isn't it?
Before I start next season, I'm going to replace the spark plugs and the wiring to the plugs. Replace the condenser and the contacts or place an elactronic one.
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Black smoke is the least concerning color, means its rich & this can be adjusted or fixed much easier than blue smoke.
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Black smoke is the least concerning color, means its rich & this can be adjusted or fixed much easier than blue smoke.
Blue smoke means its using oil? Than it would also smoke during the ride?
Going to look some things up for spare parts for next year.
Like new wiring, sparks and an electronic ignition.
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Constant Blue would indicate ring issues, blue only at start up is usually from some oil seeping into the cylinder when off, & burning off as soon as started.