a lesson it is, and flame job I've received several times from other forums by "real mechanics"
Power Timing is a simple process to extract the most from your ignition on YOUR engine
however you do need to start with a good true baseline, know your running good fuel
have a helper, a good pair of ears, timing light, digital tach, (I also include my handheld GPS), and a wrench
how old are the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, if they need replacing ......... replace them
Don't do this b4 your 2nd tank of fresh fuel this season , BAD GAS = BAD TUNE UP
if you don't have all these things or know someone who does, and know how to use them
leave it like it is and enjoy.
Power timing is basically a big NO NO in most applications
because of the potential damage you can create both to the engine and yourself if not really careful
Basically you are adjusting the timing - moving the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise
while the boat is RUNNING, IN GEAR , @ WIDE OPEN THROTTLE............not comfortable with doing that?
Then leave it like it is and enjoy.
with the ignition setup properly to specs (those with points, yuck, dwell, gap, etc)
take your boat out for a spin and get to full operating temp
advise your helper of the process, your helper will either be the
driver or the tuner
you'll need a nice long straight stretch of lake
remove the motor box from the boat
check and adjust your timing per mfgs specs it may be something like 6 degrees BTDC @ 600 rpm
(that's why you need a timing light and a real trusty tach)
adjust the idle speed to specs or your liking
turn the engine off, restart it, is it easy to restart? it should be
if not, fix any other issues
with a sharpie marker mark the distributor flange where it enters the manifold
take the boat out down your straight stretch
determine RPM @ WOT and how she sounds @ WOT with the motor box out of the boat
you should now have a good idle and know your RPM @ WOT as baselines
are you ready?
after you have marked the distributor flange
loosen the retaining bolt just enough to be able to move the distributor by hand with some resistance
get a feel for how your going to sit , kneel, crouch, reach etc over the engine when it's running
fire her up and go for a spin, communication between the driver and tuner are essential
as the tuner will not be paying attention of the driven path........ quirky drivers have the potential
of tossing the tuner out of the boat etc. so make sure the driver knows what and how to do it
take her up to wot - turn the distributor a little one way, while watching your tach and listening to the engine
if it gets slower turn it the other way , one way or the other it will go faster turn the dizzy a little more
do you hear the spark knock, does your driver------- you went TOO FAR turn it back
if you hear knocking you are pre-detonating the fuel and that is BAD!
turn the distributor for max RPM without knock
the amount the distributor is moved or twisted is usually minimal
like not much more if any more than the thickness of the mark you made with your sharpie
so what about 1/16" - 1/8" of an inch(?) not much
have the driver slow down and stop
shut off engine
snug the retaining bolt
try to restart it -------- it may be a little tougher now
if it won't turn over or really fights
take some timing out - turn the distributor back a little (closer to your sharpie mark)
once running reset the idle
recheck the base timing is it more than 4 degrees advanced from the the original base?
they don't like much more the 9-11 @ idle
you may have to do this a few times
you want a good idle 600-750 rpm ish
you want easy starting
after those 2 things then you want max RPM for you engine on your boat
if max RPM means labored starting then you went too far and turn it back a little
we typically see 300-500 rpm increases @ WOT but then there is so much advance
@ idle the engine won't start nicely
by backing it down a little we may see 100-300 RPM gain @ WOT with easy starting
and easy to tune idle and a WHOLE LOT of snort in the middle ------- where you really want it
never overlook overall engine performance just for 1 -2 mph on the top end ,,,,,,,,,, unless your racing
and these boats we're not. however no sense in leaving 1-2 mph @ the dock, find the best overall
happy medium and you'll be set
by the way this procedure only applies to those with old school standard ignitions, with points
or "points eliminator kits"
Those of you with newer boats that have full computer controlled electronic ignitions the above article does not apply
all you have to do is put the engine in "timing mode" set the advance to 10 degrees @ 1000 rpm, set it back to "run mode"
and go skiing
need more?
Call me
Dan T
219-365-1466
