Winch strain

[jono10]

Hi everyone.  I was curious about how much strain can be placed on the tow hook on the bow? We are experiencing low water levels here and are having to winch the back on not float it on, are these hooks designed to cope with this, could you for arguments sake drag the boat on dry?

[backfoot100]

That would be dependent on the condition and rating of your winch and strap. I think someplace around 2500# is the norm but I could certainly be wrong.
Would I winch it on dry? Absolutely not. I've had to winch my boat on more than once and I made sure the bunks were at least wet before doing so. In every case I was at least able to get the boat halfway on the trailer before winching it the rest of the way. Then the boat was still floating somewhat which does help. That was still tough to do.
Another thing I've done is bring along a spray can of Pam. Spray the bunks down real good before loading and make sure you can get the boat on as far as possible before winching.

Another option that may or may help. Get yourself a set of these and see how they work. I have no experience with them. http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Bunk-Glides-48/dp/B00CXADP34/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450186071&sr=8-5&keywords=boat+trailer+bunk+slides


Ron and/or Dan I'm sure would have more input.

[RonT]

The bow eye is designed to support the entire boat, in other words you could literally hang the boat from a crane by the single bow eye (I have done this) however that was with a new hull, time has a way of loosening the bow eyes via continued compression loading and possible rot of the small V block of wood that was placed inside the bow laminates. If it's tight, you won't pull it out.
As for winching, the OEM winch is designed to hold the boat in the loaded position, not to winch the boat onto the trailer. If forced to winch due to low water I would follow Backfoots suggestions. 

[jono10]

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I can only get the boat about one third on the trailer before having to winch(bunks are submerged), the eye is tight in the hull, just didn't want to damage anything.  Maybe I should just try and drive it on.
Thank you.

[Midskier]

Jono - unless your trailer has rollers on it ............ it's a drive on trailer - meant to drive the boat on certainly not winch it - the Winch merely a decoration that will hold it from sliding backwards and somewhat limit the forward movement.  Rear tie-down straps are highly recommended to used for regular trailering and an additional front strap for any high speed trailering.  If your ramp is such that you can drive it on ....... well then giddy up , I don't think I've ever used more than 12" of winch strap

So - how do you get the boat off the trailer?

Dan T

[backfoot100]

So - how do you get the boat off the trailer?

I was gonna ask the same thing.

I somehow envision disconnecting all hold down straps, safety chains and winch straps, getting a 50 yd. high speed run at the ramp backwards and slamming on the brakes just before hitting the water.

[jono10]

  Funny guys..  Currently driving it off while standing on the trailer is the only way to remove it.

[backfoot100]

Wait...so you stand on the side step pad of the trailer and then operate the throttle to back it off?? Nobody in the boat?? That's got disaster written all over it if you aren't careful.
Why can't you get the trailer any deeper? Are you at the end of the ramp? The ramp too steep or the water is just too shallow to get any deeper?

We had low water levels here for several years. I experienced having to get out and lift up on the ski platform and walk the boat to deep enough water. We're talking water less than a foot deep (making sure that you shut the engine off before anything gets sucked into the RW pickup). I've had to bring a shovel and wade out to the power loading hump (that builds up 15' behind the ramp) and knock it down before I could launch and then again before I could load. I've had to back the trailer so far into shallow water that the front wheels of my truck were in the lake. I've been on ramps that were so steep or just so s*****y if you didn't have 4WD you couldn't use them. I've had to be creative more than a couple times but I never had to stand on the trailer to off load the boat. The last straw is when you run out of ramp. If you get the trailer tires to the very last edge of the ramp and you still aren't deep enough to float the boat, you're pretty much screwed. You either find another spot or you didn't ski. Plain and simple.

The latter definitely sucks but when you:
A) Drop the trailer wheels off the end of a ramp or
B) Ground the boat in shallow water or
C) Make a trip to the hospital by improperly powering the boat off the trailer
I can pretty much guaranty that you won't be doing anything like that again.

[jono10]

Don't sound so  . Its not as bad as you are clearly envisaging. We are backing into a sand over clay bottomed lake that starts off shallow and even with the 4wd at the point where water is over the door seals its still not enough to float the boat. The only other option is not to ski---- That is not an option.

Thanks for all your feedback on the tow/winch point.

[backfoot100]

Just keep in mind that when you off load the boat the trailer springs naturally will raise the bunk level of the trailer. That makes loading it back up even more challenging if you can't get it deep enough.

Believe me, I fully understand the not skiing isn't an option thing. Exactly the reason I relocated to a place that I can ski year round. I certainly hope everything continues to work out for you.