Gauges not working

[backfoot100]

Excellent explanation from Dan. I personally wouldn't hesitate to unscrew the whole boat. It won't hurt anything at all and will make the whole process easier and faster IMHO. It's not like you're removing the deck from the hull. You're just removing the screws, cleaning, resealing and putting the screws back in the same place.

When I removed the deck from the hull when I redid my floors, I put it all back together and the old screw holes lined up perfectly. Maybe I just got lucky but I can't imagine that removing all the screws and not removing the deck would cause enough shift to cause an issue.

 

[RonT]

The TBX Deck fit (originally made by WESMAR) is a difficult fit and you don't want to have it "spring apart" removing all the hull deck screws around the transom area is usually never a problem, however I would leave a screw near each corner partially threaded out for insurance. On the rest of the hull deck screws DO NOT remove them all at the same time (ok to do on the ADVANCE) You can remove the hull deck screws but every 3-4 ft. partially unscrew but leave a few screws in place to hold the deck in place. If this is still confusing call me. 985-542-4336

[lcgordon]

The TBX Deck fit (originally made by WESMAR) is a difficult fit and you don't want to have it "spring apart" removing all the hull deck screws around the transom area is usually never a problem, however I would leave a screw near each corner partially threaded out for insurance. On the rest of the hull deck screws DO NOT remove them all at the same time (ok to do on the ADVANCE) You can remove the hull deck screws but every 3-4 ft. partially unscrew but leave a few screws in place to hold the deck in place. If this is still confusing call me. 985-542-4336

Thanks for the help I think that I get it, its not too hard of a concept. I just dont want to screw something up beyond my skill level to fix. Thats why I am trying to get as much info and guidance now before I give it a shot. This is my first boat and I have never dont any boat maintenance before on any boat so this is a huge learning process. I do know before I started water skiing I used to be really into stand up jet skis and getting the rubrail back on one of those I had was a huge pain it just did not want to fit back on. I just dont want that problem with my whole boat. Thanks again for all the guidance. 

[backfoot100]

The TBX Deck fit (originally made by WESMAR) is a difficult fit and you don't want to have it "spring apart" removing all the hull deck screws around the transom area is usually never a problem, however I would leave a screw near each corner partially threaded out for insurance. On the rest of the hull deck screws DO NOT remove them all at the same time (ok to do on the ADVANCE) You can remove the hull deck screws but every 3-4 ft. partially unscrew but leave a few screws in place to hold the deck in place. If this is still confusing call me. 985-542-4336

Thanks for the correction Ron.
See, there's a reason that Dan/Ron are here. They keep me in line. I completely glazed over the fact that this was a TBX. My bad.

[lcgordon]

The TBX Deck fit (originally made by WESMAR) is a difficult fit and you don't want to have it "spring apart" removing all the hull deck screws around the transom area is usually never a problem, however I would leave a screw near each corner partially threaded out for insurance. On the rest of the hull deck screws DO NOT remove them all at the same time (ok to do on the ADVANCE) You can remove the hull deck screws but every 3-4 ft. partially unscrew but leave a few screws in place to hold the deck in place. If this is still confusing call me. 985-542-4336

No problem thanks for chiming in.

Thanks for the correction Ron.
See, there's a reason that Dan/Ron are here. They keep me in line. I completely glazed over the fact that this was a TBX. My bad.

[lcgordon]

So I took my boat out again this weekend and did a bit of slalom but mostly barefooting.

Couple of questions, my tach was a little weird at some points. Most of the time wide open with a footer was 41-4200 rpm but sometimes it would go up to 5000 or more which I know is not right.

 Second It happended more at first but it would hesitate just a bit when you would hit the throttle. I know I need to do plugs and things like that so it could be just something simple.

The tach problem makes me wonder because I am going to be setting up perfect pass and i know the rpm sensor connects to the back of the tach so I hope that will still work and it is just something inside the tach.

[backfoot100]

It sounds like the tach is questionable at best. There might be a selector switch on the back of it to set it for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders. Cycling that switch several times may help if it has a bit of dirt or corrosion on it. Otherwise, it's best to confirm the wiring is good. Break out the VOM and start testing the wiring from the gauge to the dizzy and the ground. If all that is OK, I would say time for a new tach. As was stated earlier, it's probably the first gauge to go of all of them.

Another thing to confirm is that when it went to 5K RPM did the speed slow down while the RPM increased? Kinda like the transmission was slipping? Have you confirmed that the tranny fluid is full and a nice bright red color and it doesn't look like a strawberry shake? Have you changed the tranny fluid at all?

As for the hesitation, that is normally taken care of with proper tuning of the carb idle mixture and accelerator pump linkage but I would highly suggest doing a complete tune up to eliminate any possible hardware issues before that. I know it's been discussed here before on properly setting up the idle mixture and accelerator pump linkage.

[lcgordon]

Blackfoot, I will try those tests if I take my boat out again it will probably be a work on the boat day. The tach did work for most of the day tho.

It did not slip at all it was running normal full speed just like it did at 4000 it just read different on the tach. I checked the tranny fluid and it needs to be changed but it is not milky or anything.

My motor is EFI so no carb adjustments. It still needs a basic tune up though. Thanks for the information

[backfoot100]

Dammit, I keep forgetting this is one of those new fangled, high tech boats...LOL. You really gotta get something old school.

Then yes, tune up should help and definitely change the tranny fluid.

[lcgordon]

Yeah thanks I will change it In the spring when the oil gets changed. I live in denver so at 5200 ft the EFI really helps and it will really help when I go to 7000 this summer up in the mountains. I probably would have went carb If I was at sea level because that is something I know I can work on.

Thanks again I will keep posted.