Loss of power

[Ross333]

The timing could be off but I'm pretty sure the distributer didn't move.  It's basically a similar sound and feel as before I replaced the distributer cap. 

[backfoot100]

Hey Ross,

If you've changed everything else, the only thing left is the Pertronix ignition module. They are a very popular conversion for the guys at CCFan, but I know of several that have had them go bad. It's probably the more popular one just because it's more readily available but I question their quality (IMHO anyway). I know that there are other brands out there so you might consider that.

[Ross333]

I don't believe I moved the distributer.  I can check the timing if you think that is the problem.

[Mike Harry]

Im Not Saying That Is The Problem, But What Your Describing Ciuld Be Caused By Improper Timing. Priblem With That Theory Is It Ran Good For A Bit Now It Doesn't. Unless Dizzy Git Moved. Doesn't Make As Much SenseAs It Did To Me At First, All The Same A Quick Test Light CheckAnd Youll Know For Sure.

[backfoot100]

Mike,
You said it yourself. If it ran good for a while and then started missing again, I wouldn't suspect timing. Timing issue would be there all the time.

Another thing to check would be to remove the Pertronix and the base plate in the distributor and check the advance weights and springs. They may be sticky or have a weakened or broken spring that may be causing an issue. If the weights move freely and no broken springs, I'm still suspecting the Pertronix itself is an issue.

[Midskier]

Eddie is on the right track - Ross where is the boat? bring it to Norris Lake and we'll get it figured out
I've sold 100s of pertronix kits and have yet to have one failure plus they carry a 30 month warranty
and parts if ever needed can be purchased directly from pertronix any how a failure
could occur with older kits that had "green tape" around the magnet ring
there was a chance if the tape was removed the magnets could come loose and fall out
so if it has green tape don't touch it 
additionally if power is applied for a long period of time without any discharge the module could fail
(key switch in on position to activate the stereo)
and if it fails it fails forever and will never function again
by removing the cap, then the rotor, then the mag ring, mark the plate with a marker so you can install it exactly where it came from
then remove the screw holding the plate down , remove the module plate, now inspect the advance flyweights and springs - there are 2
the weights need to be free and the spring on each needs to be intact - hopefully they are they are the hardest part to find
the weights and springs control the advance curve

otherwise think about what else was touched like Mike stated if it worked and now it doesn't then it does and now it doesn't again
something fundamental is getting hung up

good luck

Dan T

[backfoot100]

Another thing to think about is wiring. There could very easily be a wire that's loose, has some cracked or broken insulation or is corroded that is causing these intermittant problems. Works...doesn't work...works...doesn't work.
Might be worth your time to look at the terminal block on the engine, the wiring plug for the wiring harness that goes to the dash and under the dash itself. Also any wiring on the distributor.
Verify nothing is loose, corroded, rusted, broken, pinched or shorted anywhere. You may have to remove them one at a time to check them thoroughly. Give a tug on each one and make sure nothing is loose. It's a pain in the butt. The littlest thing might cause a problem like this though.

[Ross333]

Thanks for all the advice guys.  I haven't had time to go out and tinker with the boat.  Seems like my boss doesn't share the same sense of urgency to get this boat fixed as I do.     Hopefully, tomorrow I will have some time to get out there and look at some of that stuff.