whats stock?

[kjmccoach]

Hi guys

since i bought my boat 3 years ago i have just done plugs and i'm just going about doing my leads before i drop the boat in this year. I was just checking over the cap and rotor and everything looks good still but i'm just wondering what my 1991 legend would have originally come with as far as distributor, coil, points or electronic? The tag on the distributor is prestolite MARINE SAE J1171 FCJL 12100 CA, and the coil is i would assume an aftermarket MSD blaster 2. Correct me if i'm wrong but i suspect this has been changed from points because below the coil is a ballast resistor still fully wired. I'm throwing this out there because if its been changed isn't that ballast resistor no longer lengthening the life of points that don't exist but limiting my voltage from the coil? Opinions and experience all greatly appreciated

thanks
Kyle

[backfoot100]

I'm not sure if a '91 would have been EI or points from the factory. Dan or Ron would probably know for sure. If you take off the dist. cap, you'll know right away if it's EI or points yet. That would only take a minute. The coil is definitely not factory so somebody changed that out.

Whether an EI unit needs a ballast resistor or not depends on the EI unit that was installed. Some require the ballast resistor yet and some say to bypass it. I've definitely seen it done both ways. Some of the EI units can also be very finicky about the coil that they need so it's imperative to follow the installation instructions and coil recommendations supplied with the EI unit which could explain the MSD coil.

Have you had any issues with it?

[kjmccoach]

it's definitely EI now, i know i don't have points sorry should have clarified that. but i don't see a clear brand of conversion like ignitor or anything under the cap

[RonT]

Mercrusier, Indmar, PCm??? your real concern is the coil, is it designed for application with or without a reduced operating voltage? Check with the coil company.

[kjmccoach]

Indmar 351w

[RonT]

Your coil is an aftermarket coil, the resister is there to reduce the operating voltage to the coil IF the coil specs call for it. The ballast resister is not in the circuit when cranking (solenoid pulled in) to provide a hotter spark, then when you release the starter switch the coil resumes to the normal reduced voltage operating current.

[Midskier]

So is the question keep the ballast resistor or bypass it?

like Ron stated that would depend on the coil specs and also the EI specs
which EI is it pertronix, Mallory (doubtful) or prestolite
depending on the wiring some EI are connected to the coil ( like the points setup)
with ballast resistor still in place - however lower voltage present to EI and coil
when running (not start as Ron already explained)
and some EI are wired to +12 tapped off the purple wire somewhere
and ballast resistor still in the circuit - this would feed constant +12 to the EI
and reduced voltage to the coil
and yet others are either way as mention with ballast resistor bypassed

 
regardless EI or points keep the OFF when not running
or on aux if you just want the stereo on no need to apply voltage to a coil and or EI
on a non running engine

good luck

Dan T

[Joel]

If you come to the 3rd Annual Reunion our good buddy Dan Tanis is gonna give a technical session on this very subject along with a few other topics!  Ron is gonna give one as well with boat maintenance & winterization, etc, as topics for discussion.  Gonna be a lot of fun!

Joel