Starter Relay

[Ross333]

So I have had a similar problem that I have read about in the past.  When I go to start the boat it just clicks.  the click comes from around where the starter is and is pretty loud.  A local inboard mechanic told me it was probably my starter relay switch.  So I swapped that out and still have the same problem.  One thing I did notice while replacing this starter relay, is that there was no wire coming from the small post labeled "I".  My boat does have an aftermarket electronic ignition system, so I'm not sure if that has something to do with it.   

Thanks,

Ross

[RonT]

That clicking noise is usually caused by insufficient voltage, check your battery terminals both + & - and at the engine, if tight & battery is fully charged check voltage at the starter.

[Ross333]

Is it normal not to have a wire running from the I post on the starter relay switch?  The boat ran all last summer set up like that.

[RonT]

There are so many variations of whats out there now I would need to know a lot more about your set up to be more helpful. Example: I had a Ford in here 2 weeks ago with similar symptoms, the original eng. had a starter solenoid mounted on the back of the engine and a "normal" Ford starter without the solenoid, someone had replaced the starter with a newer style permanent magnet starter with built in solenoid, had one solenoid pulling in the second solenoid, the first one had worn contacts inside & was dropping voltage to the second one & would only start when the battery was on a charger. Eliminated one of the solenoids & was good to go. "I" is ignition & is often used as a bypass circuit to feed the ign. coil during cranking, but may not be used on aftermarket electronic ignitions.   

[Ross333]

I checked the voltage at the starter and it is reading low.  Only around 11.3.  Should I just go through and check for a back connection somewhere?

[RonT]

Voltage when cranking?? Voltage when not cranking?? Voltage at the battery vs at the starter?? I have some HD battery cables in the shop, if here I might try connecting them at the battery & eng. grd., and starter post & jump over the solenoid, if the starter cranks the engine normally you have a starter motor circuit issue somewhere, if it does not crank normally I would connect my cables to a known fully charged battery & restest if it now cranks normally replace the battery, if still no good suspect the starter. (NOTE: jumper cables must be heavy enough to carry 200-300 amps)

[Ross333]

Ok sorry for such a poor reply.  I realized after I read my previous reply it left out a lot of information.  Ok so when not cranking the engine I get full power at the starter.  I have not had someone with me to test if I get power when I try to start it and it clicks.  When I said it has lower power at 11.3 I meant at the actual starter switch near the key.  The battery is brand new and fully charged. 

[RonT]

call me at 985-542-4336 this afternoon or in the morning, I leave on Mondays at 1600 cst