Ski Boat Forum
General Category => General American Skier Discussions => Topic started by: Rikkn on February 20, 2011, 10:03:46 AM
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Hi everyone, new member here from Greenville, SC. We have a 1990 American Skier Legend. The boat came with the house, along with a barefoot pole, numerous skis, helmets, - some brand new vintage 60's - 70's skis. This used to be the personal boat of the owner of the Jimmy Durham Water Ski School ( we bought the whole place ). Anyways, the damn boat drives me nuts !!! Very strong & only 569 hours on it. Stopped using it last fall due to failure to start. It turns over fine, appears to be no spark. Where should I start ???? Anyways, will post some pictures soon, I will be taking it out of the boat house tomorrow, starting a cosmetic restoration. Don't know why, as we barely use it !!
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If an engine that ran recently now refuses to start but cranks over normally you generally break it into two areas, ignition or fuel. You seem sure the fuel is not the issue, so we go into the ignition side. IS THE THROTTLE IS NEUTRAL? I would start in the "middle" of the system, pull the cap & inspect the cap & rotor for moisture/corrosion & replace as needed. Then carefully test for spark from the ign. coil output lead to ground, if strong spark, check at the end of the plug wires. I would also tell my customer that if a boat of this age came into my shop with an unknown service history & I find the first evidence of a needed tune-up I won't waste my time troubleshooting until after I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points (if it has them) fuel filters, etc. and eliminate all the small contributors of problems. These motors are very reliable with minimal maintenance.
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Ron pretty much nailed it... and DONT SKIMP on the parts - in other words dont go to AutoZone...
Also, when you pull the Dist Cap, flip it over to see if the center contact is still there, corroded, etc... Mine had the same symptoms as yours and it took me a while to figure it out cause everything else looked good - the Cap's center contact was VERY loose and sometimes she'd start & run O.K., sometimes she wouldnt start at all, and sometimes she'd start & run like crap... VERY frustrating for a non-mechanic type, but a simple fix once I found the problem... And, if you still have points & condenser SERIOUSLY consider replacing with an electronic ignition (about $100 and you can do it yourself).
Joel
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Had a complete major tune two summers ago, including new carb, plugs, wires, cap, etc, I will pop the cap tomorrow and check it out.
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Stll no go...... >:( It is now sitting at the dock. Distributor is clean & dry, no corrosion or residue on points, and they seem to open & close OK. All wiring is where it shout be and tight. Any suggestions ????? Scrap the boat !!!!
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Did you actually check for spark? There is a great little tool you can put inline that plugs onto a spark plug and into the plug wire ( also can be used between coil wire and district cap) you can pick up at auto zone on the cheap it actually allows running of an engine while seeing fire through a light bulb. Like Ron said, its spark or fuel. Have you sprayed the Carb with starting fluid?
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I did use that spark checker Mike, nothing. I am picking up a new condenser tomorrow morning, will try that.
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Sounds like you got it. IF IT WERE ME I WOULD BUY THE IGNITOR (or something similar)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It converts old points style to breakerless ignition....... easy as all get out to install!!! No more points or condenser to go bad....
I think they are around 30 or 40 bucks, but dont quote me on that.
Im guessing that you are positive you have a good 12V hot wire then? Ill let someone else chime in if they want. I know I have seen on this forum where at least 2 or 3 people have converted to the ignitor type system and love them
Good Luck
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I'm one of 'em... A decent igniter runs around $100... BEST hundred bucks you can spend and install yourself in about an hour. Starts right up, runs SOOOOOO much smoother, better hours per gallon, stronger out of the hole, etc...
If your seriously considering scrapping it... Post some pics... I'm sure theres a couple of guys on here named Tanis that would probably take it off your hands... Also, some people log on here looking for a nice project boat. I would myself, but my wife would KILL me... too many toys already... :(
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$100, wow. I wasn't aware they were quite that much. Still pretty good price for good reliable repetitive uncomplicated service though.
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OK,,,,,,,, tried a new condenser just now........ Fired up immediately, then died, and refused to fire again..... >:(..... I hate this boat !!!!
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(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/Boat1-1.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/Boat2.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/Boat4.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/Boat3.jpg)
It is a cool boat, but we don't need it. Use it maybe 3 times a year. Looks better in pictures than it does up close I think. We also have several brand new vintage skis sitting in a closet.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/vm1.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/cg2.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/js1.jpg)
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Man I havn't seen a pair rampmasters in a long time. Did you say you tested & found no spark? Then replaced the condensor & got a little running then nothing?? These are simple ignitions for old school guys & I don't know where your comfort zone is for mechanics. I would start on the low voltage side & see if you are getting a solid 12v to the coil. The "purple" circuit is your ignition feed circuit & has numerous places to fail before it gets to the coil, like the dead man switch, ignition switch, corroded wiring etc. check the voltage at the coil on the purple wire with the ign switch on, & then when cranking, should be 12v & drop a bit when cranking.
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Oh yeah, it comes with this. Boat has been on trailer once since we owned it. Maybe 2 or 3 times in its life, hangs in the boathouse 99% of the time.
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y75/RIKKN/trailer1.jpg)
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Oh yeah, it comes with this. Boat has been on trailer once since we owned it. Maybe 2 or 3 times in its life, hangs in the boathouse 99% of the time.
So are you trying to sell your boat or get help fixing it? Or getting help to fix it so you can sell it?
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Ummmmmm, yeah !! I would sell it, just think it should be running first. I do not have a clue as to what would be a fair price though.
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Where are you located and how much?!?!
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after reading through this post a few times the owner seems fairly confident there is fuel and there is no spark
a "spark tester" , 12 volt test light , screwdriver with well insulted handle, multi meter etc are useful tools in trying to track down
the problem
I have found numerous times on engine still equipped with POINTS are they are either completely closed even when cranking
or completely OPEN even when cranking and a very minor adjustment will get you going long enough to run her
and verify everything else is OK b4 you swap the points out for one of my electronic ignition kits..........
the other area to look @ as Ron already suggested is do you have 12v @ the purple wire (found @ the coil and on the electric choke of the carb)
when the key is in the RUN / ON position AND when the key is in the START / CRANK position if you have it
@ RUN but not @ START your key switch could be the culprit
if your not familiar with what to do or how to go about trouble shooting this issue please find someone to help so you don't make
the problem worse.
good luck and let us know what you find
Dan T
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Back to running !!!! Replaced condenser, running fine !!!! Now, on to the sale forum......