Ski Boat Forum
Repairs and Maintenance => Boat Maintenance - American Skier => Topic started by: Mike Harry on January 26, 2011, 04:10:26 PM
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Ive been working out a few kinks here and there. A few things either loose or started coming loose, few proplems with gauges (didnt realize marine was special and couldnt use a standard sending unit) and now my neutral safety switch has gone bad.
I was having to play with the throttle a little to get it to start for a couple of trips on the lake then this last time, nothing.
I jumped the wires all to one side of the switch to get me around the lake a few times, and now want to replace so I am safe. SKI DIM has 2 types, I want to be sure I get the right one, one is "80's and up" and the other is "old style". Im guessing "80's and up" since my barefoot is an 86..... but I am trying to save shipping back and forth time if anyone knows for sure. Then of course, "80s and up" also requires the purchase of a seperate O ring........ O well I guess
Thanks in ADVANCE
Mike
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Without seeing yours I can't tell which you have but I can tell you that in most cases your problem is cable adjustment issues, not the switch. If you have to "wiggle" the throttle to get it to work. The sure test method is to disconnect the shift cable at the trans, position the shift lever to neutral by hand/feel & see if the motor cranks, if so the issue is cable adj. if it does not crank then switch related.
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Thanks for the feedback Ron. I think I am going to go ahead and replace the switch anyway, its a cheep part...... and I will fool with adjustment if that is not the case. Backward thinking I know, but I prefer putting on new parts when I can, and adjustment can be secondary.
What is inside the housing that cuases the made/unmade condition of the switch? is it pressure, or some sort of ball that drops in place? Any possibility that that could be bad?
Thanks as always,
Mike
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Where is the cable adjustment made? At the tranny or at the shift lever? Any insight you can offer on how to make the adjustments will be helpful and appreciated.
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Good question ;D I have to wiggle mine every so often - not a big problem... YET :) Where exactly & how do you adjust the cable? I'll add it to my TO DO list this fall...
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I adjusted mine at the shifter. With that being said I would change the little brass barrels while I was in there. They wear out.
Adjusting them is as easy as pulling the carter key on the barrel and either run the barrel up the threads or the other direction until its where you need it.
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Mike,
We may want to start a list of things to consider for tech sessions at the next reunion. If anyone has experience fixing, adjusting, tweaking, repairing, installing, etc... a particular item then they can VOLUNTEER to put on a quick HOW TO tech session at the next reunion.
Nothing too involved - for instance a "neutral switch adjustment" how to session would take all of 10 minutes, but may help out a few guys trying to do it right THE FIRST TIME... like... uhhhhhhmmmmm... ME ;) I'll volunteer to schedule / coordinate the talent for tech sessions at the reunion.
Something to consider while were getting our 2nd Annual together... Joel
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If moving the shift lever a little allows the engine to start, is that a sign the neutral safety switch is ok, and that the problem is the cable adjustment? i.e. can a neutral safety switch work (or fail) only occasionally?
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If wiggling makes boat start, adjustment is needed.
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Switch failures are rare, follow the following steps:
1) Inspect cable ends for wear, the brass barrels wear at the shifter & trans, carb & throttle, older boats have 4 of these, one on each end of each cable, replace if worn
2) Remove cable end from trans shift arm, apply a little grease on your finger & work it into the back side of the shift arm trying to force it back into the shift detent cavity.
3) By hand move the shift arm back & forth FNR, RNF, and back to N, a distinct detent will be felt, now test the starter switch, engine should crank, neutral safety switch is closed.
4) Adjust the barrel on the shift cable so it slides easily into the shift arm without causing the shift arm to move.
5) Shift cable is set, now test the throttle for correct adjustment, while someone slowly moves the throttle from neutral to forward closely observe the throttle cable at the carb & trans, (I like to put my hand on each) the trans arm should move forward fully into gear before the throttle cable begins pulling the carb. arm, if so your done, if not you need to adjust the throttle cable behind the throttle mechanism.
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I don't feel a distinct denten when the lever on the tranny is moved in and out of N. Is that a sign of a bad switch?
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Without feeling it myself I would look at the ball & spring that creates the detent feel behind the shift lever at the trans. This is a point that needs a bit of grease annually, left unattended for years could cause the detent ball & spring to fail leaving no apparent detent feel. The switch can be tested with VOM meter.
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Should there be any play at all in the shift lever without movement of the cable? My shift lever can move a little w/o moving the cable.
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Sounds like the brass pivots are worn, they need to be replaced every 500 hrs or so.
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Are the brass "pivots" different from the brass barrels?
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barrels - pivots , pivots - barrels , they're the brass things @ each end of the shift cable and control end of the throttle cable :)
Dan T
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Different people use different terms for the same thing, it's the brass thingy that threads onto the cable end & inserts into the shift lever arm & held in place with at cotter pin. The part that slides into the shift arm wears down I've seen them worn all the way through till they snap.
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The pivot barrels (my new term) appear the be in good shape, but I'll replace them anyway. Is this a standard hardware store part (I am blessed with two really good, old fashion hardware stores nearby) or are they unique to the shift mfg?
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Pivots are not that easy to find, but if yours have no visible wear around the smooth portion that slides into the shift arm don't change it, smear a little grease on it & put it back together.
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Ron, based on your last reply, I inspected the barrels more closely. There was no visible wear and they don't have any noticable play where they connect to the cable. However, the shifter cable itself has about 1/2 inch of play at the tranny. That is, if I grab the shift lever at the tranny and pull/push it, the cable will move almost 1/2 inch back and forth with no visible movement of the shift lever at the driver's position (which is in N position). Is this is excessive? And if so, do I pull the cable all the way out to re-set the barrel at the tranny? Or do I find the mid point and just tighten up the play at both ends of the cable? As usual, thanks for your help.
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Throttle & shift cables are built differently than steering cables, these are a single solid ss wire running inside a tube. When the wire rubs against the inner liner it wears against it every push/pull. Wherever you have a bend or radius is where the wire will find that worn spot & create the "slop" you are describing. The only way to eliminate this play is to replace the cable.
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Bummer!
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Ron, are these Morse products and do you know the length of the cable or part number?
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33C - 17' common cable made by at least 4-5 vendors, Teleflex, morse, etc.