Ski Boat Forum
Repairs and Maintenance => Engine Repair/Maintenance - All Ski Boats => Topic started by: Mike Harry on September 07, 2014, 02:50:34 AM
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Ive thrown around several ideas over the last season and a half. For any that don't know, I built the engine in my Skier and it (to me) was perfect. It would "run"! I was GPS'n 55/56 mph and it would get up and move! Then the rod cap decided to part ways with the #6 rod, left the ears; bolts, and nuts where they were supposed to be...... just no cap.
I put a beat up 350 in the ole girl to keep it on the lake but got nothing but headaches out of it. I knew as much would happen. Performance was lacking, oil pressure wanted to drop after warm up. It was tired and I knew it when I threw it in the boat, but I wanted to keep her on the lake while deciding on long term solutions.
After much mulling around I (this past weekend) bit the bullet and picked myself up a brand new 5.7 Vortec (full roller) crate engine. Advertised at 330 Horse and 480 ft lbs trq. Ill be installing this bad boy over the next 2 weeks and getting her broke in properly just in time for winter :o
The good news is, over the last 5 years I have had the boat out in December at least 4 of those years as it was in the 60's and above. Ill just have to see what the weather looks like this year.
Im pretty excited about the decision. I hope I don't regret it.
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Nice Mike. I'll be interested in seeing how this works out for you too. I assume it's still carbed and not EFI? EFI could pose some pretty significant wiring issues if that's the case. 330HP is still a pretty stout motor that should perform pretty well.
No worries about taking it out in December. I ski year round down here. The lakes don't freeze so you're good to go.
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Yeah, Im still going simple stupid with a carb. I don't need those headaches.
Rated at 330 horse with at least a 600 cfm carb (so they advertise). I purchased a longblock so I could dress it as desired. All it needs is intake, dizzy, and all front accessories.
I already purchased an Edelbrock performer intake that parallels RPM, HP, and Torque with what the engine specs claim. Max torque at the 3800 mark and should rev right up to 5700/5800 rpm (according to Edelbrock) if desired.
The Vortec claims a 5500 rpm max power.
Everything will cross over from my other block except the intake and all the dressings have less than 22 hours on them before the original "boom"
This is my very first full roller engine of any kind. Im pretty excited to see what it will do. After all the research and WANTING to build............ I couldn't pass up what I got for $2500. I hope I still feel the same after the install and break in ;)
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Where are you getting the engine from?
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I purchased from a company called center state engines. I chose them because of price and location. They have several outlets around the U.S. and one happens to be in Ocala Florida. Only and hour and a half from me, so it was an easy ride and pickup.
I did my research, I never found any negative feedback about them as a company (I did find a few complaints about the "outlet locations" and their staffs but none of the engines or the company).
They also sell on Ebay. I don't personally care for Ebay......... but you can look up feedback ratings on companies if they sell there and I found the same thing. Hundreds if not thousands of engines sold and almost no negative feedback. Some stuff about shipping and a few other small issues but nothing that concerned me.
You can get a crate vortec almost anywhere. I purchased brand new from the GM factory so rebuilt issues are nothing I need to worry about either. They just happened to have the best price around that I could find and were close enough I didn't have to spend the extra $300 for shipping.
They also do not require a core which I liked. I have a good core but I want to change it out when I want to change it out and I don't want to have to travel back or ship it back (more money).
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Also, forgot to mention they offer a 1 year unlimited hour warrantee on the engine.
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sounds great, let us know how the progress goes :)
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Dan, do you carry the 12.75" drive damper? That's the only thing I don't have brand new from pulley to flywheel for the 5.7. Figured it would be a good idea to pick one up.
I know Ron is out of town. He has them listed on his site, but they are not in stock.
I think I can get one relatively close, but I like to order from you guys if possible. I was however wanting to put this thing in sooner rather than later ;)
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Mike - PM sent
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Someone confirm for me my original setup is a 12.75" damper plate. I need to order today but my supplier insists it can't be the 12.75 it has to be the 14"
I'd like to order today and love to get engine in by the weekend.
Any help would be great.
Dan I called but no answer, if you get a sec if you could call/text/or post here that would be awesome! I left my number in a voice mail
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hey tiger - you're squared up - Ron will be shipping the correct one out to you
your flywheel will dictate which damper to use - and that has been confirmed
good luck
Dan T
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Just a quick update. Very impressed with the Vortec. It doesn't feel like it pulls as hard in the top end as the engine I built, but the low end grunt is better. I GPS'd 49/50 mph this past weekend. I think something was wrong when I originally GPS'd 55/56 with the other motor. I cant confirm or deny that but it doesn't feel like Im going much slower.
Who cares anyway right? Its not like Im looking for tip top speed anyway. I found this weekend that I like the 30 to 35 mph range (still in the primary on the carb) much more than getting in the back 2 and killing the gas needle. Sure every once and a while Ill blow out the secondary but its not something I plan on doing every single time the boat sees the lake.
Finally happy with it. I feel that Im at a 90% or better on the completion (I never finish anything, there will always be something to tweak). I posted some pics from the weekend on the facebook site.
Im ready for a reunion if anyone was ever thinking about doing another! ;D
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NICE! another 50mph Advance
so the what are the details - prop, wot rpm
carb, igniton etc
I'm having a friendly argument right now about carb specs with
another engine builder, we'll see how that ends up around May hopefully
Dan T
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Im running a 3 blade 13x13 (which Im almost sure is stock). It has been sent in for "rework" but its supposed to be stock.
Im running a Edelbrock 1409 Marine 600 cfm carb on top of an Edelbrock Performer 2116 aluminum intake manifold.
WOT is 4800 to 5000 rpm depending on water conditions (had a slight chop when we were on the lake last weekend)
As far as an ignition system, I am running a Mallory series 85 (vac and or mechanical advance) HEI dizzy. I know Im not supposed to........... but..........
50 mph was the high side. It was only bumping up to 50. Real world sustained was 48/49
It honestly feels like Im over reving the prop. Im sure I could get a little more there. Im sure I could get a little more with timing. Ive only set the dizzy at 8 before at idle. I have not "lake tuned" the engine as you guys call it. I honestly don't think I feel the need. I don't think I need any more and I don't think the price of admission (a new prop) would be worth the outcome (a mph or 2?). The more I use the boat the less I see myself using the secondary very often anyway. I was very happy at cruising between the 30 to 35mph range.
If I need to do 55+ mph Ill take out the jet skis ;D
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BTW, Edlebrock only sells 2 marine carbs. The 1409 is 600cfm and the 1410 is 750cfm. I could have gotten 650cfm with a Holley but I just don't like them. Ive never had anything but issues with Holley's and never anything but luck with Edelbrocks.
750cfm was just a little to big for my engine in my opinion. I didn't see the beni in going there.
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Mike - it sounds like you're right in the wheel house..........
and realistically no changes need to be made , a few notes worth comparing
Carburation - you nailed it :) , many arguments over 600 / 650 vs 750 , for applications 600s always win and run best
4800+ rpm - are you running out of prop (?)- you are most likely exceeding the prop's efficiency
changing pitch will not do much - changing TYPE from old school sand cast to new style CNC (Acme)
will make a difference - however the cost of experimentation can be prohibitive.
3 blade acme has comparable blade surface as 4 blade sand cast - and is MUCH more efficient
Ignition - personally I like to base line the timing at several different rpm, full advance should be in somewhere
around 3k being mechanical advance you check that on the trailer or @ the dock / NOT MOVING ......
HEI is a fantastic choice (though a marine unit like DUI is a better choice)
(full amount of total advance the distributor moves + your base timing should = your total advance).......... and that's where
it can tricky hehehe
Again and as you already know any changes to the above will yield small incremental if any gain, or worse create a catastrophic failure.
if it starts easy - and runs smooth up to WOT - you're pretty much done .............
no more typing on this subject - call me and or Eddie , anymore info and someone will surely blow something up
Dan T
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Not me brother. Im set. So is my engine.