Ski Boat Forum
General Category => General American Skier Discussions => Topic started by: mtbinscotland on June 06, 2012, 11:33:16 AM
-
Hi there, I'm considering buying a 91 legend with circa 480 hours on her. She looks to be in pretty good condition but thought I'd ask all you experts if there is anything I should be weary of?? All in original condition so looks to be well looked after from the photos at least. Thanks. Ps this is in UK so any thoughts on issues with parts would be welcomed also...
-
I'll call you Scotty seeing as I have no idea what your name is.
So welcome Scotty,
Personally, I think you would love it. I'm not familiar with the Legend but the AmSkier is a fine boat and you would not be disappointed. I'm sure others here would be able to give you a little more info on the Legend line so hang tight for them. What engine are we talking about in this bad boy?
As for parts, they could be somewhat of a challenge. SBF and/or SBC parts are very easy to find but it's a question of will the vendor you get the parts from ship to the UK and how much are you willing to pay for said shipping?
I know of several guys that have Correct Craft boats in the UK and they've been able to get about anything that they need. As I said, it's more a question of how much do you want to spend. I do believe that they have some sources over there though. I'll put out some feelers to see what I can find out for you and I'll get back to you but it would really be more informative knowing what engine you potentially need to source parts for. I know that they all have Fords. And reverse rotation Fords which is even worse so a standard rotation motor for you may very well be easier.
Another thing that may or may not be a determining factor for sourcing parts is will you keep the engine gas or change over to propane? I know with the price of "petrol" over there, several have made the conversion and been very happy with it.
By the way, where in Scotland are you located at? I spent some time in Holy Loch where the submarine I was on called home when it wasn't underwater many, many moons ago. I still miss the best fish & chips I ever ate from there. I've been to Glasgow and Edinburgh. Friggin' awesome is what immediately comes to mind!!!!
Very cool to get some posters from the UK. Hopefully we can continue to get more?!?!?! Stay tuned for more input from others here. and again, WELCOME :)
Eddie
-
Hey Scotty,
Here's a response that I got from a friend of mine in England. He has three different Correct Craft's that he's restored and knows very well what it takes to source parts over there. As you can see from his response, it sounds as though engine parts aren't that big of a deal. Especially standard rotation (Most all CC's before '89 are reverse rotation which can be challenging over here at times). It sounds like tranny and good machine shop work may be another issue if you're thinking about rebuilding.
He mentions Eric as a source for tranny parts. Eric is another friend of ours in Ohio that owns his own marine shop and he specializes in tranny's. He is awesome when it comes to getting a quality rebuild kit to you if needed. If it comes down to that, I could get you his contact information.
Hopefully Ron and/or Dan will be able to chime in about what it would take to get AmSkier specific parts to you as I have no idea about that.
My response from Roger in England.
Hi Eddie,
There is no problem finding engine parts in the UK if your keeping it standard, can get a little tricky for some reverse rotation parts but Real Steel do have some here on the SBC not checked on there SBF parts, the parts that are a pain are if there OEM hull parts USA is the only way to go
I have brought parts from Summit and SkiDim ( new Tranny ) and shipped over but its not cheep and you will pay an extra 20% on the cost for UK tax + shipping, I have found if you make a list of parts you need and shop around in the USA with tax and shipping you can still come out ahead.
As for tranny rebuilds they are around in the UK look to pay around £650.00 or if you are able to have a go I would speak to Eric and get a full VD rebuild kit sent over from the USA there a some over here but how good they are is unknown and Eric uses the steel reverse plate which don't strip like the OEM do.
The hard part in the UK is finding a good machine shop to rework the old engine this is not cheep and the good guys can be booked for months more so in the spring, look to get it done around Nov/Dec as most of the Drag/race season are over there are some good shops in Scotland just do some research first on the one best for you.
Hope that lovely 383 of yours is keeping that gin on your face... the weather here is crap please send some sun over.
Here are some links that may help
Real Steel
Key Parts
Cheers Roger.
Hope this helps Scotty. Feel free to contact me for additional contact information and by all means, go ahead and buy that Legend. I assure you that you will not be disappointed.
Eddie
-
I bought a 1992 Legend about 4 years ago. Other then a few minor issues, which are age related, the boat has been fantastic. Best wake I have ever skied over. Lots of power. Easy to drive.
-
He mentions Eric as a source for tranny parts. Eric is another friend of ours in Ohio that owns his own marine shop and he specializes in tranny's. He is awesome when it comes to getting a quality rebuild kit to you if needed. If it comes down to that, I could get you his contact information.
Yeah, Eric is great. He's helped me out in the past with a leak I had... Sent me out the seal for free!! Not that anyone should expect that but what a nice gesture. Very knowledgeable. He's the one who told me that when storing our boats over winter (velvet drive 1:1) you should fill the tranny fluid to the top because they have a tendency to develop rust. Just remember to drain a little back out come spring time :)
-
Guys, thanks to all of you for your insight and connections. I hope to be meeting the current owner shortly (and his boat of course) to take (again, his boat of course) for a test drive. I'll be sure to consider all of your recommendations and will let you know how I get on...
Cheers from Bonnie scotland,
"scotty"... :-)
-
Guys, I took the plunge and went for it so am now the proud owner of a beauty. Slight overheating issue on the Loch on my first run yesterday, a bit frustrating as you would imagine, so going to try to replace the thermostat ASAP and hopefully that is it solved. Thanks again for your comments.
-
Nice lookin' boat Scotty,
Maybe a little more detail about your overheating issue. How hot is hot? Is it at idle or at speed? What kind of shape is the impeller in?
A couple of things to check out:
It's not uncommon for the temp gauge to run a about 20 degrees hotter than the rated thermostat. A 143 degree stat is the norm so about 160 is OK. It'll probably cool down then at idle.
Tighten all of the hose clamps from the Raw water intake all the way thru the exhaust. Use a socket and not a screwdriver.
Replace the impeller. If any pieces are missing, you'll have to start taking things apart to find those pieces. Most likely at the thermostat.
If you have a strainer,make sure that it it's tight. the seal could be letting air in. Maybe even replace the seal if needed.
Your tranny cooler could be clogged or partially clogged. Pull of the inlet hose and make sure it's clear.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find out.
Eddie
-
Scotty,
I have a 92 Legend that I have been over and replaced a lot of parts over the years and have a wide knowledge of the boat. Pics of mine are in the 2012 reunion folder. If you have any direct questions about the boat, just PM me I will be glad to help as much as I can.
BJ (wetamb)
-
Thanks. The temp gauge was maxed and the audible alarm sounded after being in the loch (er, lake) for only 15 mins. Turned engine off, began checking things. Impeller seems fine. Clamps could probably be an issue so will double check those. Thermo looks a bit shot and there was no sealer (gasket) inside (assume there is supposed to be one).
Pulled her from the water onto trailer to start investigating. After running cold water through entire system manualy, Exhaust risers are getting very hot at idle and temp gauge is staying at maxed level, although audible alarm is not sounding anymore.
Water from exhaust is clear and seems to be the quantity you would expect given that I am running on land with the hose line connected directly to intake.
Anyways, will keep looking into things...but any ideas, I'm more than grateful.
Cheers!
-
Yes, there should be a gasket on the thermostat. If there wasn't I would have thought it would be leaking like crazy all over the intake.
That still wouldn't explain the hot manifolds. Even if the thermostat was bad, the exhaust manifolds should still be cool. I'm thinking there's blockage or air being sucked in someplace yet. Aloose hose connection and/or blockage.
You said you checked the impeller and that looked fine. You are talking the raw water pump impeller and not the circulating pump impeller?
Try doing the bucket test. Disconnect the raw water intake hose at the hull or oil cooler inlet and connect a hose extension that runs over the side of the gunnel to a 5 gallon bucket filled with water. If you start the engine, the raw water pump should suck the bucket dry in about 15-30 seconds. If it doesn't, you have to look at all the different possibilities I had listed above and find out where the issue is.
-
Aha! I only checked the recirculating impeller. I'll locate the other one and give that a go. As for the bucket test, good idea! Sounds a better option than just simply sticking the hose in the top of the open hose that I disconnected from the water strainer. Perhaps this is reason for air in the system?
Will try that too...
What's the best way to 'flush' air out of the system?
Cheers
-
You don't have to flush air out at all. You get the water cooling the system as it should and it's all good. the reason the systen isn't working is probably because you have air in the system. eliminate the air entering the system and you fix your issue.
The recirculating pump impeller should be brass or stainless and that one generally just starts to leak out of a weep hole in the pump housing itself when it goes bad. That isn't very often. The raw water pump impeller is the important one. Trace the hoses from the thru hull fitting to the strainer and oil cooler and then to the front of the engine. The hose should be going to a pump mounted on the front of the crank pulley or to a seperate pump mounted to the front corner of the engine. Each engine manufacturer used different pumps and without knowing what engine you have and who the manufacturer was, I have no idea what pump you have. Either way, you take that pump apart to find a rubber impeller and see what condition that's in. It probably wouldn't to replace it if you don't know the last time that was replaced.
-
Is this a Mercruiser conversion? If so it will have a belt driven raw water pump & likely has a bad impeller, also given the model year this boat may not have a sea water strainer, so you must inspect the inlet of the trans cooler for debris. I would also double check the plumbing to verify where the trans cooler is in relationship to the raw water pump, some are after the pump & will collect the torn impeller blades.
-
It's an indmar 260 hp with a sea water strainer. I'll double check the pumps as recommended. I'll keep you posted on my progress and send some photos when I'm on the water (I hope...soon). Thanks again and thank goodness for such a great forum!
-
After reading this thread, I am now worried that my exhaust manifolds are getting too hot. They are hot to the touch after running a few minutes - too hot to hold your hand on for more than a few seconds. What temperature should they be and is this an indicator of bigger problems elsewhere? Can they be cleaned or should they be replaced? I looked around the site to see if this topic has been discussed before but didn't see anything.
Oh, and on an unrelated topic - am having carb problems this season and am blaming the E-87 crap that they sell 'round here. Already dug some o-ring material out of the needle valves in the floats and see some serious flaking throughout. Have been using the additive too, but only started last season...probably too late.
-
What does your temp gage say?? Exhaust manifold temp by feel is not all that accurate, remember there are really two sources of water running through them, bypass water and heated water from the block. When starting up you have mostly all by-pass water which is lake temp, then as the thermostat opens you switch to mostly heated water from the block which is 140-170 degrees plus the heat of exhaust inside the manifolds. Another variable is the manifold material, stainless, aluminium, or cast-iron, but the biggest variable is your skin tolerance.
Maintain a temp gage reading between 145 - 170 & your good to go.
-
Temp. is right where it aught to be - 140. So, what are you telling me...that my hands are too sensitive?! HA!
-
The problem will go away if you quit holding the exhaust manifolds when they are hot. 8)
-
You're right again! Kept the engine cover closed and no problem...thanks Ron!!
-
You guys KILL ME!!! ;D
-
Well, thanks to all of the recommendations from you guys (and the outside the box thinking of my mechanic), we have solved the problem. 1) impeller was in pretty bad condition and 2) we were taking in air through one of the hoses. Had her on the Loch all day yesterday and she's purring like the tiger she should be! :-) Now, i just need to get my wife behind the wheel next again weekend for me to enjoy a ski...
Thanks again for your help!
Cheers for bonnie Scotland
-
Glad to hear you got her running correctly! These are actually pretty simple boats, but can be perplexing if you dont know where to look when you have a problem. Thats why we have Ron & Dan and a couple of other guys on here that know a TON about these boats!!! We are a very fortunate bunch!!
Happy boating!
Joel