Ski Boat Forum
Repairs and Maintenance => Engine Repair/Maintenance - All Ski Boats => Topic started by: John Doerfler on August 01, 2010, 12:53:41 PM
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Hey guys,
Just found this website and I gotta be honest. I am thrilled that there are others out there like me. My 83 AM skier is the reason I was put here on earth. It was my deceased fathers boat and he loved it as much as I do. Anyway, I cant seem to put a Tstat in my engine without it wanting to overheat. Engine is a fresh 350, new impeller that works great, and new hoses. Ron has been trying to give me advice on Tstat location and hose routing but the darn thing wants to get hot every time I try it. Do you suppose my engine water pump is bad? HELP!
Kyle Doerfler
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Is there any way you can get a digital pic up on the site of your hoses or email it to me or someone if your worried about the routing of the hoses that is. Are you sure you didnt put the T-stat in upside down? Recirc could def be your problem..... are you using the original recirc pump or a new one?
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Well, the hose routing is correct and verified by Ron. The Tstat position is pointy side up under the 3bolt cover. The engine coolant pump was installed last year and it wanted to overheat then due to impeller pump issues. That is when I decided to wait until this summer to rebuild the engine which I have done and had it on the water twice. Each time I put it on the water and have to remove the Tstat because it wants to creep over the 160 degree temp max of the Tstat. I have a picture in my personal profile area. That picture is the old hose routing before Ron corrected that for me. I think I will just have to buy a new engine water pump and try that out! Oh yeah, the impeller pump works great.
Kyle Doerfler
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Sounds like the recirc pump could be the problem then. Sounds like you have all your other bases covered.
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Where is the recircualting pump located??? Mine likes to creep up to 180 or so... It has a 160 F T-Stat and the impeller is fine.
Thanks, Joel
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Its the water pump on the front of the engine and its the one used in automotive applications.
Kyle Doerfler
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Well, I took of the engine circulation pump today and I may have a bad pump. Word of Wisdom, dont buy remaned parts. Buy new parts if you can. I also was told by a local mechanic that you can plug of the bypass port by tapping the hole and inserting an 1/8" pipe plug in the bypass to block it of and that will give you more flow volume. You dont need the bypass because the Tstat location lends a bypass so you wont build water presure in the engine. Going to try it out this weekend and hopefully the new pump plus the extra volume will do the trick. I will keep you all posted. Thanks!
John Kyle Doerfler
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Yeah, I wont buy reman unless I'm getting the kit and doing it myself. Hope you have it licked now!
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Guys this engine cooling thing is driving me nuts. Got a new circulation pump. Impeller pump sucks a 5 gal bucket of water down in about 15 seconds. My hose routing goes from the bottom of boat, to the trans cooler, to the impeller pump, then to the cooling block on top of motor. BUT every time I try to put a 160 Tstat in the engine it wants to overheat!!!! I have tryed placing it under the three bolt cover like everyone is telling me with the pointy side up but no such luck. Is there anyone out there that can help me?????? My profession is mechanics so I think I am not underqualified for such a task.
John Kyle Doerfler
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I was looking at some pics of 350 power plants like mine and I noticed that I may have the hose placement wrong on the front of the exhaust manifolds. If somebody with a 350 engine like mine would please take a look at my pictures of my motor in my personal album and compare mine with yours that would be great. John Kyle Doerfler
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Tryed the different plumbing on the front of the exhaust manifolds and had no luck. Still wants to overheat when I put in the Tstat. Well I guess I will keep investigating.
John Kyle Doerfler
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Make sure all your hoses are good. Sometimes when they are older and get bad, the will blister on the inside and restrict water flow. Also make sure the water is flowing thru the entire engine and making its way out the exhaust, between debris sucked up and rust flakes from the cast iron, a piece or pieces may be causing a restriction in a port. I have even seen engine blocks filled with debris so bad you have to disassemble the motor, remove all freeze plugs, and clean out. Rare, but still a possibility. Start with the easier stuff and work your way, which it sounds like you have. Check to see if the water is flowing thru the exhaust manifolds to the risers. I have found the passages between the two stuffed with debris also, which is where the hot water needs to exit to allow fresh cool water in.
Good luck.
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Also forgot a simple one. Make sure there is no debris stuck in the oil cooler. These are prone to getting plugged and causing major water restriction (many models have a seawater strainer which will prevent this). If you had an impeller come apart, did you find all the pieces. These pieces will sometimes also plug passages. Again, if the pump is doing its job and the hoses are routing the water properly, there has to be a restriction keeping the water from moving.
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I had the same problem last season. The risers were all plugged up with corrosion.I had to replace both sides. I also replaced the 160 thermostat with a full flow thermostat. my temp actually is a little low (150s) but but shes running good so i didnt try to put the 160 back in.
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Thanks for the advice brandon and davo. Well all the hoses are brand new. I just had the engine rebuilt and a machinist here in Hays did great work so I dont think its restricions in the engine block. The trans cooler is free from debris. When the Tstat is in I can feel all the cold water wanting to go straight to the exhaust manifolds instead of going through the engine. Tstat works when I put it in boiling water but it doesnt work in the engine. I gave up on it for a little while. It runs great without a Tstat however it would be nice to finish the engine rebuild and have everything working right. Do any of you know somebody who knows these power plants so I can call him and let him know my situation?
John Kyle Doerfler
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What are the risers?
John Kyle Doerfler
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Risers sit on top of the exhaust manifolds (the elbows ) or on the back of the log style. Ive seen your pictures, I cant remember which ones you have.
Just looked again at the pics. You have the same style exhaust I have. I wont say your elbows are not clogged, but I wouldnt think they would be. I would think that is mostly a problem with cast iron exhaust.
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Stupid question...... but Ill ask anyway. Have you only tried one 160 T-stat? Is the temp stamped on the T-stat?
As cheap as they are I would make sure you actually have a 160. You might even want to try a 140 for now. Ive got a buddy who works in an auto parts store..... well lets say everything isnt always as it seems and everything doesnt always get put in its right box.... ect. ect.
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Yeah, I have tryed several Temp ranges and tested the ones I have bought in boiling water. You know its almost like the water that is passing over the top of the Tstat exiting to the manifolds is so cool that it cools the Tstat because of heat transfer through the metal. I had a mechanic friend tell me to try drilling a few holes in the Tstat. I might try that. The boat began having the issue about 11 years ago, long before I restored the engine and I just never ran a Tstat in it all these years. But now that Im trying to restore the boat I want everything perfect. Even though I have tryed 2 new circulation pumps I still think something is a little fishy there. Could the circulation pump be pumping water the wrong direction?
Gongchuan, could you do me a favor and see if your large hose that goes from the Tstat housing to the circulation pump swells a little with pressure when you rev the engine? Its the hose that says Hardine Marine on it.
John Kyle Doerfler
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ill take a look at it. My boat is in restore mode too. I only run it on the trailer right now, she is not lake worthy right now. Ill see what I can come up with though.
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I think I am going to try drilling 4, 1/8" holes in the Tstat. A local mechanic told me to give that a shot. You know its hard to imagine that Tstat wanting to open when there is cold water flowing over the top of it. This morning I tryed taking the 3 bolt cover of and running the engine to see if the circulation pump is flowing in the right direction and it appears that it is, so I will rule that one out. Boy, I started the engine and that baby really spewed water out.
John Kyle Doerfler
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Does your water neck (next to the Tstat) not have a bypass hole in it? Mine does. Its not the exact same style as yours, but should work the same.
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Yeah it does, I have some great pictures of it I will put in my personal profile. Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it.
John Kyle Doerfler
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Drilled some 4, 1/8" holes in the Tstat and it seemed to work good in the driveway. Going to try it out tommorrow at the lake. Keeping my fingers crossed.
John Kyle Doerfler
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I'm having in the SAME EXACT problem... Changed the thermostat, etc, etc... Cant figure it out except it doesnt appear to move enough water - Yeah, I know... DUH! Maybe the impeller is too small... the hoses are too tight... who knows???
My question is DOES IT REALLY NEED A THERMOSTAT???? Will it still perform after warming up??? The lake water isnt exactly freezing... more like 83 F...
Ron? Dan? Phil? Anybody????
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Escuse me if I missed something earlier but you don't by chance have the petcock at the transmission cooler open do you?
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I have a full flow therm. in my boat (just a thermostat without any guts) my auto mech. suggested it and I've never had a problem with performance but... any mech. will tell you that an engine is designed to run within a certain temp. range. I happen to be in Tn. and our water is pretty warm in the summer (around 90) so my temp is usually around 140- 150 It runs a little lower in the spring and fall but i still don't see any difference in performance.
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Chris,
I dont think so... I'll check, but i think i would've noticed it. Thanks!
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Its wierd... My Advance likes to run warmer when I'm planed & running at speed. Goes up to about 180 F... Then when I bring it down to idle, it cools right back down to 160... I dont get it???
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Joel and Chris,
I dont think my trans cooler on my 83 has a petcock. Ive had it of many times and it looks to be a straight shot through for the water. Maybe Chris could elaborate more on that for me. You know guys I have rebuilt every thing on this engine with a fine tooth comb and for the life of me I cant figure out why it doesnt cool with a Tstat. Yesterday I went to the lake armed with a Tstat with holes drilled into it and you know it worked. It is a 160stat with four 1/8" holes drilled into it and it held yesterday at 180degrees all day long. Weird stuff.
John Kyle Doerfler
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I just know that if any petcock is open that the boat does not cool properly. Neighbors had a Sport Nautique that kept overheating at an idle. Took us forever and replacing an impeller (which was starting to get ugly anyway) and a spidery (cracked) water filter case and two trips to the marina to figure it out.
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Is 180 degrees NORMAL with a 160 T-stat??? Mine runs at 180 degrees at speed / planed, but cools to 160 degrees at idle. I'm thinking its time to change the impellor. Its a Johnson impellor and it looks kinda small for a engine this big, but what the hell do I know... The impellor looks fine upon inspection, but maybe the rubber "fins" are getting to the point where thier laying down & doing more spinning than sucking up water at a higher rpm... I dont know, but I'm gonna get a new one anyway... I'll let ya know the results.
Thanks, Joel
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Well Joel you know I have racked my brain all summer trying to get this new motor cooling right with a Tstat in it. I have had the entire engine and all the components with it refurbished and restored with new parts. No ideal why I have to drill holes in a 160 stat to get a 180 temp all I know is 180 isnt to hot and I have had the boat out on the lake twice since I did that and it holds 180 all day long. But I would still like to know why I have to deviate from the stock set up to get this thing to cool? Waiting for god to drop from heaven and give me the answers!
John Kyle Doerfler
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That could take a while... I think He prefers "puff boats" to stink boats... He tends to stick with natural powerplants ;)
Ron said to me 2 seconds ago that 180 is NOT normal... This is what I described to Ron: "I had it on the hose today (very cold water) on a fake a lake (plunger type supply) - checked all the hoses, etc, no blockage that I can see and the T-stat didnt want to open fully. The top of the housing never got hot, the lines to the exhaust never got hot, the waterpump hose (big fat one - I think it is a return hose) on stbd side of engine was plenty hot although the temp still went up to 170 or so on my temp gauge..."
Ron's answer: "180 is NOT normal. Start at the water intake grate on the bottom and work your way to the engine. Check the inside of the water-intake grate (be sure it isnt blocked in any way). Check your sea-strainer (water strainer) for small cracks and make sure the gasket is in the top when you put it back together, ensure all hoses are double clamped. Check your transmission oil cooler - take off the water (not the oil) supply & return hoses, shine a light through one side & hold a mirror to the other side of the unit. You should see through it very clearly - you may need to clean out the small pipes inside (use pipe cleaners). Next, check the supply hose to your impellor for blockages. Check your impellor to see if its serviceable (not cracked, etc) - crank over the engine once to ensure your impellor fins are folded over in the direction of the crank (they could be folded backwards - it will pump water but not well - it happens) Check all hoses leading to the thermostat, the water (circulating) pump, and the exhaust risers for blockages. Check your T-stat and/or replace - while doing this check all openings to the housing & the manifold for debris, etc... Make sure your T-stat bypass hole (about the size of a dime in my boat) is not plugged. Put it all back together and make sure you use gaskets or gasket maker for good seal on the implellor & T-stat. When its time to test the engine, use a 5 gallon bucket with a supply hose from the house into the bucket and route your intake hose from your strainer into the bucket. Throw away the "Fake-A-Lake" as the water pressure from your house could screw up your impellor..." Damn thing costs me some $$$$
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Hey Joel,
What your describing to me is exactly the same thing that is happening to my motor. Again, I have been through it all VERY thoroughly and a normal Tstat will overheat the engine. However, I havent tried a 140 stat. Ron told me to give that a try and see what happens. I will try it tommorrow if I can find one. Its funny I have felt all the areas your talking about for heat and mine does the same thing. Its like all the cold incomming water just goes right out the dime sized bypass hole in the cooling block. Joel, I am a mechanic so I can assure you that I have given this a thorough going through. About the 180degrees I dont think it will hurt anything. Ron told me that guys would run a 180stat to get a little extra power. My truck runs at 200degrees. But I would really like to have it at 160. You know the 160stat with the four holes drilled in it gets to 180 really slowly then at 180 it varies up and down a little like the Tstat is opening and closing. I cant help but think that you have really cool lake water flowing over the top of the stat and that transfers heat through the metal of the stat and cools the bottom where the hot water is not allowing it to work properly. In an automotive engine the water going over the top of the Tstat is hot as well so you dont have as much of this affect. I dont know! At this point I feel like I dont know anything. Will try that 140 stat tommorrow like Ron said and let you know how it works.
John Kyle Doerfler
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I did the above procedure right after I talked to Ron & posted it... I found some clear plastic pieces inside (top) of the oil cooler on the output side of the sea-strainer. Looked like hardened sealant and how it got there is anybody's guess so its well worth checking out... The oil cooler itself was clean so the strainer is definitely doing its job. I'm sure those pieces restricted the flow a bit so THANK YOU RON, but it still goes up to 170 F on hose water - pretty cold out of the tap. Of course the temp sending unit and/or the gauge may be off, but it seems to respond pretty well to temp fluctuation so I'm thinking its O.K.
I guess this is gonna have to do for now - I've got to go skiing on Thursday. Try NAPA... I've been everywhere else and a 160 F T-stat is all I can find. One guy told me that 160 is as low as they go... I'm sure Ron knows what he's talking about but a 140 T-stat for my Indmar 351 is as easy to find as hen's teeth :( Let me know if you find a 140 T-stat and where you found it!
Of course, life is pretty good if this is the biggest problem weve got! LOL!!!!
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Joel, if you need one and cant find one let me know. Ive got a buddy in the parts buisness (auto zone) and he got me the 140, somewhere around 12 bucks.
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Right On Joel, life cant get any better than when your one glassy water on an American Skier. I'll keep you updated man.
John Kyle Doerfler
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Gongchuan,
Those are the @$$#%^!!! guys that told me the lowest temp listed on "the computer" was a 160 F T-stat - "they dont make 'em any lower than that for a 351 Ford..." If you got a 140 F T-stat for me, the shipping would cost 1/2 the price of the part :( Can you get me a part #, etc, so I can go to there and ask for a specific item??? I may pull the damn thing out and go "Commando!" :) Seriously, I dont think a lake with 84 F water is gonna cool it down to the point where its gonna effect my performance tooo much...
John,
Keep me in the loop on what you find as well...
Thanks guys!
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Ill get it for you today brother
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News Flash!!!!! I think I may have discovered whats wrong with my boat!!!!!!!! Just talked to Ron today and we got to discussing it and I think my Jabsco pump may be insufficiently providing enough pressure. It flows lots of water without a Tstat because there is little to no restriction and when you put the Tstat in, the water back pressure is to much and it flows down the path of least resistance and out the exhaust bypass hole and not through the engine. Its a long story as to how we reached that conclusion but lets just say I tried to modify the pump to work with a different impeller. It flows lots of water but wont build pressure like it has to when you introduce a Tstat. WOW!
Going to buy a whole new impeller pump and see what happens. As for the 140stat. I think I will just stick to the 160 if all this works. I would like it to run about 160 and not 140. In the mean time what I have works OK and I will be tearing up my feet on the water this weekend.
John Kyle Doerfler
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Very COOL!!!! I just read Ron's post about the different impellors (Johnson / Jabsco). I'm thinking I have the correct impellor cause I can barely squeeze that bad boy in there and it comes all the way, flush to the front. I have to push on it a bit to get the pump cover on... But then again, I can find no practical solution to the slight over-heating... Soooooo... I'm buying a new impellor from a local supplier who spent about an hour researching to find the "right" one for this pump. We'll see - it should be in tomorrow, but I'll be on the lake tomorrow :) Maybe Friday!
Gonchuan is gonna get me the part # for the 140 T-stat so I'll get one of those too... the cost like $12.00.
Keep me posted! I'll do the same :) Thanks Guys!!!
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If you are not pumping sufficient volume/pressure from your raw water pump into your motor a 140deg. stat will not make a difference. Inboards have a bypass that allows water to flow out the exhaust 100% of the time the pump is turning, therefore water will take the path of least resistence, if there is a t-stat in the way the under pressurized water will simply go out the exhaust.
Years ago I remember troubleshooting this very problem, customer did not want to buy a new pump, I took off his raw water discharge hose from the t-stat block & started the engine, water came out fine until I put my thumb over the hose and very little volume/pressure appeared. After changing the pump the same test resulted in spraying water nearly 50' to the neighbors pier (under thumb pressure). His cooling problems were corrected.
Here are the Book Ratings for a typical Johnson F6B crank driven pump on a Small Block Chevy:
1000RPM = 9.5 gpm
2000RPM = 19 gpm
3000RPM = 29 gpm
4000RPm = 34.5 gpm
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Bad news Joel. It turns out the t-stat I got from auto zone was a mistake that they only had one of. I guess it had been on the shelf "FOR SOME TIME". sorry man.
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Ron, I'll stick to with the 160 T-stat and keep looking... I replaced the impellor-pump discharge hose to the T-stat today. The old one was pretty short with a tight bend and I'm THINKING it could be restricting the flow... I can only hope that its something that SIMPLE!!!
Gonchuan, Thanks for trying buddy!
You guys are the best!!!
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Of course its never anything THAT simple... :o Got the same temp readings while out on the lake yesterday. The good news is the boat is running like a champ ;D Had to gas up and the Marina only uses gas with NO ethanol - I'm sure my boat likes that :) The shop ordered a new impellor that should be in before next weekend. I'll put it in and go skiing then - any excuse to go skiing :)
Lets hope # 1 its the correct impellor and # 2 it solves the overheating issue. If its the correct impellor, but it still overheats then I'm out of ideas, other than going commando and removing the T-stat all together - which treats the symptoms, but not necessarily the problem (which is what Ron is sayin).
I'll let you guys know what I find... Hope you all are having better luck :)
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Well damn! Installed the new impellor... fits snug, all the way to the face plate with no gaps, new gasket, etc. Ensured all the hose connections were tight from the hull intake to the exhaust risers. Took it out on the lake and the boat ran HOTTER @ 180 - 190 F. Although it stayed consistent and didnt fluctuate more than 10 degrees between underway and idle...
So out of shere desperation, I took out the thermostat and it ran at a VERY cool < 100 (underway) and 110 (idle). It still runs O.K. but the motor wants to hesitate out of the hole cause she's not warmed up... I'm gonna go to NAPA and try out another 160 F thermostat - hoping my other NEW one is not opening fully at 160 F (thier cheap).
If that doesnt work, I'm officially out of ideas short of pulling the recirculating pump. The recirc pump appears to be fine, its not loose, not making any noise & turns smoothly with the belt off, etc... Is there a chance the recirc pump's blades are worn to the extent that thier not moving the hot water well ???
Its not like the boat is overheating @ 180 F, but its driving me nuts cause it SHOULDNT be that high...
Thanks guys! Joel
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Joel I FEEL YOUR PAIN MAN!!!!!! I have been going over the same problems all summer and eventually gave up after coming to the conclusion that I think my water pump isnt putting out enough pressure. The boat runs great without a stat staying around 130ish but I want my boat to look and run just like it came from the factory and it drives me nuts that I cant figure it out. Going to sit on it all summer and maybe try buying a whole new impeller pump next spring (expensive!!). About the circulation pump, I bought 2 new pumps, tried them both with no success. I doubt its your circulation pump but they are cheap and its worth a shot I guess. Let me know if you finally figure it out.
John Kyle Doerfler
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try buying a whole new impeller pump next spring (expensive!!).
Shouldnt be that expensive. I got a whole new one (housing and all) for 200. You can buy rebuild kits for them for around 35 to 40 bucks. I just went the easy way out..... gonna rebuild the old one and stash it somewhere on the boat for a backup plan.
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Went back to the parts store today and got a SUPER-DUPER (limited lifetime warranty) 160 F T-Stat... If this doesnt solve the problem I'm just gonna run it at 180 F this week and worry about it another day...
I already have one Jabsco & one Johnson impellor. Ron is correct, the Johnson is TIGHT but works about 10 degrees cooler (according to the temp gauge) probably because of the improved pressure Ron referred to in another post.
The only other item I can think of is the temp sending unit maybe off (doubtful, but you never know). I'll post results of the new T-stat after I get back to Ohio - I'll include make/model #/etc - from our week long boys boat trip on Laurel Lake, Corbin, KY. Beautiful lake but very limited ammenities and its in a DRY COUNTY - MAJOR BUMMER... :(
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I have the 350Chevy in my 83 and that requires a larger pump than the 351ford motor due to the increased performance. As a result it is more expensive at around $380. I think thats what Ron told me. Anyway I installed a rebuild kit and it didnt work. Its a long story. Later.
John Kyle Doerfler
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I have the 350Chevy in my 83 and that requires a larger pump than the 351ford motor due to the increased performance. As a result it is more expensive at around $380. I think thats what Ron told me. Anyway I installed a rebuild kit and it didnt work. Its a long story. Later.
John Kyle Doerfler
Mine is the Indmar 350 also with the higher horses..... which only came in barefoot boats in my model. The pumps may very well be different though.
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Dont you love the 350chevy? Mine is the Hardine Marine. Maybe thats the difference?
John Kyle Doerfler
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Nope... Love my Ford motor... 8) Bulletproof and runs like a champ (hot or cold) I'm off for a week long water ski trip in the a.m. You guys keep it lively on here and I'll check in on Monday...
Ciao! Joel
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Discount Inboard Marine has a 143 F thermostat listed for less than $10. I believe it fits both the Ford 351 and Chevy 350. That'll be my next purchase :) I'll let ya know how it works!
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Sorry, I almost forgot... DIM lists the correct impellor for our boats as well :)
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Well, guys its been a while since i was on, but the 143 F T-Stat works like a charm ;D She runs at 150 and the temp stays pretty steady. But, as Ron has said MANY times - I'm treating the symptom and not the cause... So, after looking around with the engine OFF, I noticed a leak from the back of the impellor pump. Gotta say I never noticed that before, but that is probably where the system is sucking air - Ron is a damn genius!!!
Anyway, can I repair the rear seal in the pump or do I need to get another pump??? They aint cheap :(
Thanks brothers!
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Good news! The raw water pump had a leaky rear seal and one (of two) bearings starting to bind-up. Fortunately, I caught it before both bearings went bad so the pump housing and shaft wasnt damaged.
A new Johnson pump is $245... NOT! The rubber seal was $18.25 + S&H, the two bearings were $25, my labor is free... Less than $50 repair - PRICELESS!!! I'm a happy camper.
Cooling issues SOLVED!!!!
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Good to hear Joel!
John Kyle Doerfler
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Back from the dead.....over the summer I've had the reverse problem as you guys. I'm running a 160 Tstat. And my engine wont run above 125..... have confirmed with infrared thermometer.
Think my stat is stuck opened.
Any other thoughts?
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Thats all I can think of... start there, but when your operating in 90 degree water is running cool a BIG problem??
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I think it becomes more of a "problem" when the water gets pretty cold. Ill be running her periodically through the winter.
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I am having cooling issues myself at this time, I have read this entire topic in hope of finding a solution. I recently had an impellet blow apart, I think this was do to lake of water feeding it, I had a leaky hose feeding it and have since replaced.
I am hoping I just have the wrong impeller installed, all I could get in a pinch at a local Nautique dealer was a Sherwood. Not sure this one is adequate, I have since ordered a Jabsco from DIM, but have not received it yet.
Question, Brandon mentioned to be sure you get all the pieces of a blown impeller, I did clean out the impeller housing of all pieces, is there somewhere else I should look ?
I remover the T Stat to be sure that was not the problem but without it I am still running hot. At an idle only, about 210 degress, on a plane , she cooles off fine.
Till I get this corrected, is it dangerous to idle at 220 ?
Lot of questions, any help would be appreciated.
Thank-You all,
Keith
85 Advance
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for some closer, incase anyone is interested......
today I removed the hose before the impeler housing, ran with it in a bucket of water with a hose feeding the bucket, she never got to hot, so I new there must be some blockage between the impeller and the intake in the hull of the boat.
I took all the hoses off, prior to the impeller, including the strainer, flushed them out but never found anything. after putting everything back together I started her up and the temp was normal, I presume something was lodged in the hoses or intake and I never saw it get flushed out.
it was somewere in this 5 page topic that gave me the idea to feed the impeller with the intake hose in a bucket, which lead me to correcting this problem.
So I thank John Doerfler for starting this Topic !
Keith
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Keith,
Pull off the hose that goes to your transmission cooler there is a screen in there and that could be holding alot of impeller pieces. Atleast thats what i have found from my experience. When i first got mine i ran it off a garden hose and it caused the impeller to burn up and thats where i tracked all the pieces back to!
Dustin